Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,,

Yes i know another topic of the air bag light but this is a little different..

I recently picked up my R34 GTT and yes the air bag light was flashing when i bought it..Me thinking simple fix..At worst i thought couple of hundred.

Anyway,after the car sending my local mechanic and his diagnostic machine crazy,they delved deeper to find it has an after market computer.A Mines computer to be exact.Be it a good thing or bad thing i still need to get that damn air bag light off.Im from Wollongong if anyone knows anyone down this way that would be able to do it please let me know..I can travel to Sydney of course ;)

  • Like 1

there is a hardware reset that works on all nissans up to current . google nissan airbag light reset procedure. itsa a mix of key and door switch baasically. no scan tool required.

The mines ecu wont make a difference.

The airbags(SRS) run off its own control unit.

You need to get this specific circuit diagnosed.

Try and find an anto electrician that has experience with these cars and those systems.

Hope this helps.

Goodluck.

Thanks Luke..I cleared the light after a thousand goes of pressing the door light button but the bugga came back on today.I found out the Mines ECU runs the same as factory the only difference is you can hook it to a laptop and tune the car that way so im told..I do have to find someone with a diagnostic machine that will read it or someone with a program in their laptop to suit.Ive been told Tune House in Marrickville but im sure i'll find someone local.Gonna have a look at my clockspring first.Hopefully thats all it is

Cheers

See if you can get a copy of the nissan workshop manual.

It MAY have instructions on manual code extraction.

I had a diagnostic tool hooked to it but they couldnt get a fault code thats why i put this post on here ;)

I found this one awhile back, Never looked through it much but it may have something in that could help. If you want to look through it all haha

http://www.scribd.com/doc/5332929/Nissan-Skyline-R34-Workshop-Manual-English

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...