Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts25T Hicas Removal? Subframe Swap?


Recommended Posts

Hi I know this has probably been covered before but I'm a noob to the forums and am having trouble sifting through all the threads. I have a 1996 R33 gts25t ecr33 and want to remove my hicas but not just use a hicas lock bar as I require I cert for this and can get around this if I just swap the frames.

I need to know what sub frames are a straight swap with my car ?

Any help would be very appreciated thank you :yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got another question. If I run a s14 subframe in the rear of my 33 will all my standard suspension and diff bolt straight up to it? except the toe arms as these are on the hicas unit ?.

a possible list of what parts I would need could be nice.

Thank you guys for your time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ Thank you for your knowledge GTSBoy I have another question lol. I have found a r33 non hicas gts subframe but the guy is saying I will need to purchase different hubs as mine will not fit :S do you have any light to shed on this issue ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Took a little trip  went to nismo hoping the get my fuel tank hoses and unfortunately they told me they didn’t have stock luckily I was able to go to a Nissan parts store and they were able to order them in for me  then can home and cleaned the tank with some degreaser and fitted the new hoses before putting it back in the car 
    • 100% I’ll hack into the 33. Strap a turbo onto the RB25DE and/or put the 25 head on a 30 block. 33 passed in cos the reserve was too high. I’ll try lowballing it again and negotiate. Aim is to have it landed and on the road for under 15k, then spend the same amount on top in mods.
    • It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline. Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT. Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.
    • They sell them in Malaysia for about $4
    • First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe.  Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet.  Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm. 
×
×
  • Create New...