Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right guys and gals,

I’ve been on here a while and posted very little, mostly because I had little to post about but since I am going to be doing a bit of work on my car I thought I might as well share the experience…

Last year I bought a 1989 R32 GTR which was fairly modified, it was up for sale on here but since there was little interest and my plans have changed I have decided to keep it and build it. Just now it has:

Twin HKS 2350 turbos
Mines 600cc fuel injectors
Mines Air Flow Meters
Genuine Mines Tuned ECU
Autobahn88 600x300x100 FMIC with hard piping kit inc. HKS front pipe
Twin Blitz BOVs
Bosch 040 in-tank fuel pump
HKS air pod filters
Trust Extended Sump
Standard internals
Oil filter relocation kit with new HKS oil filter.
Autobahn88 Silicon hose to replace all heater hoses and radiator hoses
Brand new NPC 5 puck organic clutch and lightened flywheel to suit
3” Veilside Evolution II cat back exhaust
Modena Racing 17x9 alloys
Aftermarket fiberglass Side skirts, not sure what brand...
Tein adjustable suspension.
upgraded slotted and drilled brake discs front and back with new pads.
JIC racing front upper control (camber) arms
HKS Turbo timer
GRID HICAS electronic lock out (VERY RARE)
Greddy Profec B Boost controller
Trust boost guage
Recaro drivers seat
Momo steering wheel with boss kit.

Some pics of the car as it is just now.

Photos:
DSCF2004_zpsf12e7308.jpg

DSCF2005_zpse964e464.jpg

DSCF2006_zpsbdd6bcf3.jpg

DSCF2008_zpsd11e8230.jpg

DSCF2009_zps7fe69aa5.jpg

DSCF2010_zpse3bc3ff6.jpg

DSCF2011_zps4b841fbf.jpg

DSCF2012_zps4880b4e4.jpg

DSCF2013_zpsf520d63d.jpg

DSCF2014_zpse338117c.jpg

Plans:

Strip motor down, install forged rods and pistons, new tomei gaskets, new N1 water pump, N1 oil pump with billet gears and crank collar and give it a damn good tune…

Then once that is done get it tidied up, maybe a respray in the not too distant future, new seats, new suspension, new sideskirts and some new wheels. Not going crazy on this build so it might be a bit slow at times.

Will do my best to keep it updated.

Comments/opinions welcomed,

Thanks for reading

Dave. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422322-another-r32-gtr-build-syd/
Share on other sites

Small update:

The engine is out and will be getting stripped starting tomorrow. Then the real work can begin!!

Will also be picking up the cam, valley and timing belt covers so I can get them painted. Not decided on a color yet but was thinking of just doing a simple coat of red wrinkle paint. Also re-painting the inlet manifold black or silver...

Will get pics of the progress up when I get a chance to get down to the shop (hopefully tomorrow)...

  • 2 weeks later...

Update:

I took home the engine covers and inlet manifold to give them a bit or a tidy up and here is the result so far,

Inlet prepped and primed:

IMG_0707_zps9e9152b1.jpg

Painted:

IMG_0709_zps2a9f8e76.jpg

For the engine covers i decided to use the VHT Wrinkle plus paint. First time I have used it so was a bit nervous about the results but was happy in the end:

Before,

IMG_0704_zpsd33eb8e5.jpg

Straight after applying paint,

IMG_0710_zpsd38964da.jpg

IMG_0711_zpsb9184a3d.jpg

2 hours later,

IMG_0712_zps664d0d65.jpg

IMG_0715_zps4e2dfa26.jpg

then the finished product,

IMG_0716_zpsafc12128.jpg

I am very happy with the results. :) I will post up the other covers as I do them...

  • 2 weeks later...

Nice work with the crinkle paint, I was unaware what the finish product would look like without using a heatgun but it looks awesome.

Especially with the white 'RB26'

By using a heat gun you get to wrinkle consistently across the object and it only takes like ten minutes to get the results.

Nice job though mate.

Nice work with the crinkle paint, I was unaware what the finish product would look like without using a heatgun but it looks awesome.

Especially with the white 'RB26'

Thanks Zorbe, Yeah it was my first time using it. Sprayed it on and a couple hours later it was wrinkled nicely. The 'RB26' on the cover is actually just bare metal, sanded the paint off. Just looks white because of the flash on the camera...

By using a heat gun you get to wrinkle consistently across the object and it only takes like ten minutes to get the results.

Nice job though mate.

Thanks Ants, I thought about getting a heat gun on it but decided I didn't want to buy one just for 10 mins work... Looks good enough for me. Better than it did at first anyway...

  • 2 months later...

RIGHT!

I know I have been pretty slack on up-dating this but have been working out in Western Queensland for the last couple of months. Finally got a minute to myself so thought I should up-date this.

Car is all finished and back together. Huge thanks to Marcus at Team K Kustoms. Great guy and know his stuff. Really happy with the work.

List of work done:

Remove motor and gearbox

Strip motor

Chemically clean

Block cracked tested

Block decked

Block bored 20 thou over

Cylinder head fully service {crack tested, machine, valves reseated, new valve stem seals, vacuum tested}

Tomei Valve springs

Crankshaft machined 10 thou over main bearings

Crankshaft conrod finished and polished

JE forged pistons 20 thou over

JE piston rings

Scat forged conrods with upgraded ARP 2000 bolts

ARP head stud kit

ARP main stud kit

ACL race series conrod bearings

ACL race series main bearings

Tomei Multi layered steal head gasket

N1 oil pump

N1 water pump

Tomei Sump baffle

Tomei Cam baffle

Tomei Head Gasket

Genuine Nissan full gasket kit (except head gasket)

Paint motor

Recondition injectors

new spark plugs

hardrace performance engine mounts

new timing belt

Reassemble motor

Refit engine and gearbox

Oils, coolants etc

Oil filter

Dyno tune

So pictures...

r32gtr013_zps1c2588f9.jpg
r32gtr015_zpsfff4d1bd.jpg
r32gtr012_zps65d7d81e.jpg
r32gtr010_zps81221c74.jpg
r32gtr016_zps6b5a52e0.jpg
r32gtr021_zps3908f0c7.jpg
Finished product
r32gtr024_zpsd7840a14.jpg
And back in the car...
r32gtr027_zps7e26cfc2.jpg
Still running it in a bit and not had a final tune done. Safe tuned at around 280kw for a run in.
Will get it on the Dyno once I get back to the big smoke (Sydney) in a couple of weeks or so.
Will up-date once I get something new...
r32gtr021_zps3908f0c7.jpg
Finished product
r32gtr024_zpsd7840a14.jpg
And back in the car...
Still running it in a bit and not had a final tune done. Safe tuned at around 280kw for a run in.
Will get it on the Dyno once I get back to the big smoke (Sydney) in a couple of weeks or so.
Will up-date once I get something new...

That engine with those engine covers look strikingly like my old engine.

Build looks great mate. Keen to see the end result and then you can have LOTS of fun ;)

Keep it up.

Thanks guys. Yeah it's good to see the improvements.

Sadly I don't get to drive it much at the moment due to work.

Still not sure if I should keep it or let it go to someone else who could enjoy it more than me, plus it's not hugely great to drive around Sydney in traffic... But every time I drive it I want to keep it. Haha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...