Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I am trying to find out whether early or most R32 GT-R's did or did not have a mould than ran along the top of the screen.

If you look at my attached pics you will clearly see that there is no top horizontal mould however there is 2 vertical ones on either side.

My JDM is a 1990 model but it does have the original Nissan screen with the radio antenna built in.

It certainly looks as though it should have it but I was told by a reliable source that earlier cars don't have them. I am trying to work out what year model had them introduced.

I also have a ADM R32 GT-R (1991) and that one does have the mould......

I just check my 1989 and 1990 original brochure/catalogues and you can clearly see they doesn't have them so I know my car is correct in that sense.

I looked at a late 1992/3 catalogue and it doesn't show it as clearly but it looks as though they are there.

It may have been another series 2 upgrade that also came with the ADM cars as they had different screens however were built before the JDM series 2's.

If you own a R32 please reply with a yes or a no to the mould and the year model of your car.

Thanks guys,

Bob.

post-78207-0-69415600-1365210984_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-92052100-1365210985_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-24479300-1365210987_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423018-front-windscreen-mould-question/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback.

Looks as though I can answer my own question.

After posting the original question, I went and had a look at a 1/1994 GT-R..... Obviously one of the last of the series. Pics attached.

It also did not have the horizontal mould.

I am now quietly confident that this feature was reserved only for the ADM's. ADR's at the time required a clear screen, meaning the antenna fitted in the JDM's screen was not compatible until a few years later when the rules changed. ADM's also got the green tinted top band which the JDM's did not

Appreciate your help.......

Cheers,

Bob.

post-78207-0-53502000-1365225720_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-06894900-1365225727_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
×
×
  • Create New...