Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lower Control Arms - SOLD
Heater Core - SOLD
Stock Suspension - SOLD
Handbrake Gear boot - SOLD
Window Weather Shields - SOLD
Center console - SOLD
Windscreen wiper washer bottle - SOLD
Nissan Sumitomo S2 ABS brakes complete 4/2 pot front/rear (hubs, brakes & brake pads, discs etc...) - SOLD
Front Guards - SOLD
Nismo Clear Side Indicators -SOLD
Genuine S2 Front Bumper inc. Factory M-Spec Front Lip & Indicators - SOLD
HICAS - SOLD
Stock Rims - SOLD
Airbox Snorkle - SOLD
Front Grille - SOLD

Subframe - SOLD
Steering Rack - SOLD

S2 Spoiler - SOLD
Auto Diff - SOLD
3" Fujitsubo Giken Cat Back Exhaust - SOLD

Seat Belts (Front / Rear) - SOLD

S2 RB25DET Auto ECU - SOLD

Driveshafts - SOLD
Passenger Side Door - SOLD
Factory Adjustable Rear Strut Brace - SOLD

S2 40th Anniversary Full Interior inc. Front Seats, Rear Seats, Door trims (front/rear) - SOLD

Front KYB New SR Special Shocks / Rear Koni Sport Shocks inc. Tein S.tech Springs - SOLD

Front wiper motor - SOLD

Edited by DarkRyda
  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi mate sorry cant post it. The glass is fragile, it might break via transit id rather pickup so people can inspect the items before paying me.

No worries mate, understandably, thanks for getting back to me.

Lower Control Arms - SOLD
Heater Core - SOLD
Stock Suspension - SOLD
Handbrake Gear boot - SOLD
Window Weather Shields - SOLD
Center console - SOLD
Windscreen wiper washer bottle - SOLD
Nissan Sumitomo S2 ABS brakes complete 4/2 pot front/rear (hubs, brakes & brake pads, discs etc...) - SOLD
Front Guards - SOLD
Nismo Clear Side Indicators -SOLD
Genuine S2 Front Bumper inc. Factory M-Spec Front Lip & Indicators - SOLD
HICAS - SOLD
Stock Rims - SOLD
Airbox Snorkle - SOLD
Front Grille - SOLD

Subframe - SOLD
Steering Rack - SOLD

S2 Spoiler - SOLD
Auto Diff - SOLD
3" Fujitsubo Giken Cat Back Exhaust - SOLD

Seat Belts (Front / Rear) - SOLD

S2 RB25DET Auto ECU - SOLD

Driveshafts - SOLD
Passenger Side Door - SOLD
Factory Adjustable Rear Strut Brace - SOLD

S2 40th Anniversary Full Interior inc. Front Seats, Rear Seats, Door trims (front/rear) - SOLD

Front KYB New SR Special Shocks / Rear Koni Sport Shocks inc. Tein S.tech Springs - SOLD

Front wiper motor - SOLD

S2 M-Spec Side Skirts - SOLD

Lower Control Arms - SOLD
Heater Core - SOLD
Stock Suspension - SOLD
Handbrake Gear boot - SOLD
Window Weather Shields - SOLD
Center console - SOLD
Windscreen wiper washer bottle - SOLD
Nissan Sumitomo S2 ABS brakes complete 4/2 pot front/rear (hubs, brakes & brake pads, discs etc...) - SOLD
Front Guards - SOLD
Nismo Clear Side Indicators -SOLD
Genuine S2 Front Bumper inc. Factory M-Spec Front Lip & Indicators - SOLD
HICAS - SOLD
Stock Rims - SOLD
Airbox Snorkle - SOLD
Front Grille - SOLD

Subframe - SOLD
Steering Rack - SOLD

S2 Spoiler - SOLD
Auto Diff - SOLD
3" Fujitsubo Giken Cat Back Exhaust - SOLD

Seat Belts (Front / Rear) - SOLD

S2 RB25DET Auto ECU - SOLD

Driveshafts - SOLD
Passenger Side Door - SOLD
Factory Adjustable Rear Strut Brace - SOLD

S2 40th Anniversary Full Interior inc. Front Seats, Rear Seats, Door trims (front/rear) - SOLD

Front KYB New SR Special Shocks / Rear Koni Sport Shocks inc. Tein S.tech Springs - SOLD

Front wiper motor - SOLD

S2 M-Spec Side Skirts - SOLD

S2 8 Pin Driver side window switch & surround - SOLD
S2 Automatic Cluster 112,649 kms - SOLD

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey ppl still got these items for sale:

R33 S2 Automatic Gearbox, 112,649 kms $400
R33 Automatic Tail shaft $50
R33 Suspension arms:
- Front L/R Upper Camber Arms $40 a pair
- Front L/R Toe Arms $ 40 a pair
- Rear L/R Camber Arms $40 a pair
- Rear L/R Traction Arms $40 a pair
- Rear L/R Lower sub-frame support brackets $20 a pair
Passenger rear pod (white) $20
Battery tray includes bracket, fuse box $50

Steering column surround $20
S2 Indicator Stalk / Light Stalk $60
S2 White Driver Side Door $150ono (excludes side mirror, lock, door trim)
S2 Climate Control Unit $50
S2 Dash Fasica inc. switches/vents/auto plastic gear surround $120
Rear vision mirror $20
Skyline Door Scuff Kick Plates $20 a pair
Sun Visors $40 a pair
Dome Lights (Front / Rear) $30 a pair
S2 Roof Handles $20 set

Rear "skyline" garnish $10 (damaged)

Boot trims $20 the lot

Sway bar front / rear $20 each

Dash Cluster plastic surround $10

Lower Fuse dash trim $20

S14 Airbag Steering Wheel $70

S2 Dashboard $100

Interior Carpet $40

Aircon core $50
Heater fan $30

Roof lining $40

A pillar trims $40 a pair
B pillar trims $40 a pair

S2 White L/H (Passenger) Door Mirror $30 (tested and working)

I've probably forgotten heaps of stuff ppl so don't be afraid to shoot me a PM or comment, some prices are negotiable so don't be afraid to offer =) cant hurt to ask.

1998 R33 S2 GTS-T Automatic Gearbox, Includes torque converter

Great condition, only needs gearbox oil as i have drained the oil before removing the gearbox. Thought ppl might want a picture, out of the car and ready for a new owner.


KMS: 112,649

Tailshaft: $50
Gearbox Price: $400

post-66083-0-67224400-1372393549_thumb.jpg

post-66083-0-37193200-1372393557_thumb.jpg

post-66083-0-59420700-1372393564_thumb.jpg

Edited by DarkRyda

I have the tailshaft, flywheel, auto shifter & auto gearbox happy to combine all the parts for a cheaper price if anyone needs the lot or can seperate.

Price is negotiable make some offers ppl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...