Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car died a few weeks ago and am now in the process of working out what to do... engine rebuild is definatly nessacery, ran too much boost through the engine:(

current engine mods are:

- 3in. exhaust

- front mount cooler, unsure of exact dimensions

- EBC

- Mines chipped ecu (maby the cause of the whole problem)

- Greddy oil cooler

- Greddy plumback BOV

What im doing is putting on a HKS 2535, want to be able to run 20 psi throught it. and as far as im aware, ill probably need...

- forged pistons (what is a good/cheap brand?)

- GTR (or simmilar) fuel pump

- Power FC

- Injectors and fuel pressure regulator

Couple of questions...

what sort of injectors can i fit straight in without needing to make a custom fuel rail? or how do i go about getting a fuel rail made?

How much generally is it to get the Power FC tuned?

were gonna be taking the car out to alice springs (no speed limits:)) when its finished, is there anything i should be carefull of in regard to tuning with this in mind?

Im looking for around 250 RWKWs out of the engine when it's finished, do i have to upgrade the injectors, ive heard both yes and no...

ive budgeted around $8000 for the whole thing, is this about right? any help would be appreciated.

By the way, went into a local workshop the other day and explained my situation to the guy, told him i wanted around 250RWKWs. He quickly told me that it wasnt worth doing and it would cost me around $30,000. Then i asked him about the RB30/25 conversion, to which he replied, "not worth doing mate, last guy who tried that, ended up costing them around $300,000!!!!". What a load of shit eh?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/
Share on other sites

bahahaha i would never visit that local workshop ever again.

for $8k i think you could easily get:

- forged pistons (what is a good/cheap brand?) $1100

- GTR (or simmilar) fuel pump $450

- Power FC $1500

- Injectors and fuel pressure regulator $900

for that $8k i am pretty confident you could build an RB25/30 if you really wanted to go down that path!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865633
Share on other sites

add say $1000 for labour

and $1000 for new gaskets, bearings, machining

it shouldnt cost that much, but at least if you over budget you will end up surprised when you do pay for it all.

If possible do work yourself like pulling the engine out. Its really not that hard. The money left over from the rebuild can go towards more go fast parts, ie cams, cam gears, decent tyres and suspension setup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865652
Share on other sites

I checked out doing a rebuild with an RB30 bottom end (i supply the RB25) a while ago and was quoted about $8k, this was with a full port job, forged pistons and shot peened rods from JHH Engineering in queensland.

I cant remember the horsepower i was quoted but they where confident of an easy 250rwkw and i think he said the limiting factor on the motor they would build was the turbo and the fuel.

But with an RB30 bottom end they reckoned you wont be blown away by the horse power its the sheer torque that will plant you.

Also i got the feeling that they have built a large number of these motors and they have a good reputation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865663
Share on other sites

Hi, you can get a rb26 fuel rail made to take top feed high impendance injectors, ( rochester make injectors from sizes 100cc to 1600cc and are $100 each new). PFC will cost depending on where you take the car to be tuned. More expensive isnt always the best as some people here before have said. There was a thread in the NSW section about this just a couple of days ago so go check that out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865686
Share on other sites

yeah im trying to do things a cheap as possible, have already pulled the engine out and stripped the manifolds and rocker cover off. Car has virtually brand new tyres and suspension is alread done:) will be good to see how fast it can go out in NT!

Thanks for ur help guys. Lepperfish, how much is an RB26 Fuel rail? How do i modify it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865720
Share on other sites

I have had my stock RB25DET (got a power FC) wrap the speedo needle around to zero ie from zero past 100, past 180 and then onwards to zero and i was still accelarating (got to around 230km/hr i guess). The only problem was that it was sitting on max boost (and around 7000rpm from memory), else the car felt fantastic roaring down the stuart hwy at that speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865739
Share on other sites

I have had my stock RB25DET (got a power FC) wrap the speedo needle around to zero ie from zero past 100, past 180 and then onwards to zero and i was still accelarating (got to around 230km/hr i guess). The only problem was that it was sitting on max boost (and around 7000rpm from memory), else the car felt fantastic roaring down the stuart hwy at that speed.

HAHAHA that sounds sweet dude, what sort of temperature was that in? Ur engine didn't ping or anything?

sorry, ill rephrase my other comment. Im trying to keep costs to a minimum, not do things cheap:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865761
Share on other sites

I remember working out that if I had my R32 sitting on some where between 7000rpm and 7500rpm it would be doing 250-260km/h.

If you are going to spend 8k on a motor I would suggest you remove and install the motor your self with maybe a couple of friends and a carton of beer. :O

Spend the money you save from doing it your self on a set of forged rods.

Then slap a big huffer on it and run 400rwkw. :)

I had my:

RB25 head rebuilt with a mild port polish for ~$1100 inc the VRS Kit.

RB30 bottom end rebuilt, blueprinted, balanced to 1gm, had the block, crank & rods crack tested, Wiseco forged pistons, multi-layer metal head gasket and the RB25DE head fitted inc. fitting cam belt for ~$3700.

So all upthe rebuild set me back around $4800.

If you were to slap a set of forged rods in, thats an extra $1800.

Brings the price up to $6600.

I personally wouldn't waste the $600-$800 they charge for shotpeening rods. It doesn't make it that much more reliable. I remember when I looked in to it that shotpeened rods only allows around another 50hp overall. Which is nothing.

You should be able to break the landspeed record with a nice big huffer and high diff gears up at alice springs then. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865777
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...