Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car died a few weeks ago and am now in the process of working out what to do... engine rebuild is definatly nessacery, ran too much boost through the engine:(

current engine mods are:

- 3in. exhaust

- front mount cooler, unsure of exact dimensions

- EBC

- Mines chipped ecu (maby the cause of the whole problem)

- Greddy oil cooler

- Greddy plumback BOV

What im doing is putting on a HKS 2535, want to be able to run 20 psi throught it. and as far as im aware, ill probably need...

- forged pistons (what is a good/cheap brand?)

- GTR (or simmilar) fuel pump

- Power FC

- Injectors and fuel pressure regulator

Couple of questions...

what sort of injectors can i fit straight in without needing to make a custom fuel rail? or how do i go about getting a fuel rail made?

How much generally is it to get the Power FC tuned?

were gonna be taking the car out to alice springs (no speed limits:)) when its finished, is there anything i should be carefull of in regard to tuning with this in mind?

Im looking for around 250 RWKWs out of the engine when it's finished, do i have to upgrade the injectors, ive heard both yes and no...

ive budgeted around $8000 for the whole thing, is this about right? any help would be appreciated.

By the way, went into a local workshop the other day and explained my situation to the guy, told him i wanted around 250RWKWs. He quickly told me that it wasnt worth doing and it would cost me around $30,000. Then i asked him about the RB30/25 conversion, to which he replied, "not worth doing mate, last guy who tried that, ended up costing them around $300,000!!!!". What a load of shit eh?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/
Share on other sites

bahahaha i would never visit that local workshop ever again.

for $8k i think you could easily get:

- forged pistons (what is a good/cheap brand?) $1100

- GTR (or simmilar) fuel pump $450

- Power FC $1500

- Injectors and fuel pressure regulator $900

for that $8k i am pretty confident you could build an RB25/30 if you really wanted to go down that path!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865633
Share on other sites

add say $1000 for labour

and $1000 for new gaskets, bearings, machining

it shouldnt cost that much, but at least if you over budget you will end up surprised when you do pay for it all.

If possible do work yourself like pulling the engine out. Its really not that hard. The money left over from the rebuild can go towards more go fast parts, ie cams, cam gears, decent tyres and suspension setup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865652
Share on other sites

I checked out doing a rebuild with an RB30 bottom end (i supply the RB25) a while ago and was quoted about $8k, this was with a full port job, forged pistons and shot peened rods from JHH Engineering in queensland.

I cant remember the horsepower i was quoted but they where confident of an easy 250rwkw and i think he said the limiting factor on the motor they would build was the turbo and the fuel.

But with an RB30 bottom end they reckoned you wont be blown away by the horse power its the sheer torque that will plant you.

Also i got the feeling that they have built a large number of these motors and they have a good reputation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865663
Share on other sites

Hi, you can get a rb26 fuel rail made to take top feed high impendance injectors, ( rochester make injectors from sizes 100cc to 1600cc and are $100 each new). PFC will cost depending on where you take the car to be tuned. More expensive isnt always the best as some people here before have said. There was a thread in the NSW section about this just a couple of days ago so go check that out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865686
Share on other sites

yeah im trying to do things a cheap as possible, have already pulled the engine out and stripped the manifolds and rocker cover off. Car has virtually brand new tyres and suspension is alread done:) will be good to see how fast it can go out in NT!

Thanks for ur help guys. Lepperfish, how much is an RB26 Fuel rail? How do i modify it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865720
Share on other sites

I have had my stock RB25DET (got a power FC) wrap the speedo needle around to zero ie from zero past 100, past 180 and then onwards to zero and i was still accelarating (got to around 230km/hr i guess). The only problem was that it was sitting on max boost (and around 7000rpm from memory), else the car felt fantastic roaring down the stuart hwy at that speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865739
Share on other sites

I have had my stock RB25DET (got a power FC) wrap the speedo needle around to zero ie from zero past 100, past 180 and then onwards to zero and i was still accelarating (got to around 230km/hr i guess). The only problem was that it was sitting on max boost (and around 7000rpm from memory), else the car felt fantastic roaring down the stuart hwy at that speed.

HAHAHA that sounds sweet dude, what sort of temperature was that in? Ur engine didn't ping or anything?

sorry, ill rephrase my other comment. Im trying to keep costs to a minimum, not do things cheap:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865761
Share on other sites

I remember working out that if I had my R32 sitting on some where between 7000rpm and 7500rpm it would be doing 250-260km/h.

If you are going to spend 8k on a motor I would suggest you remove and install the motor your self with maybe a couple of friends and a carton of beer. :O

Spend the money you save from doing it your self on a set of forged rods.

Then slap a big huffer on it and run 400rwkw. :)

I had my:

RB25 head rebuilt with a mild port polish for ~$1100 inc the VRS Kit.

RB30 bottom end rebuilt, blueprinted, balanced to 1gm, had the block, crank & rods crack tested, Wiseco forged pistons, multi-layer metal head gasket and the RB25DE head fitted inc. fitting cam belt for ~$3700.

So all upthe rebuild set me back around $4800.

If you were to slap a set of forged rods in, thats an extra $1800.

Brings the price up to $6600.

I personally wouldn't waste the $600-$800 they charge for shotpeening rods. It doesn't make it that much more reliable. I remember when I looked in to it that shotpeened rods only allows around another 50hp overall. Which is nothing.

You should be able to break the landspeed record with a nice big huffer and high diff gears up at alice springs then. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42354-pricy-rebuild/#findComment-865777
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...