Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright gents, here's a new one for me, from what I've seen on the forums at least. So, I have no spark in any cylinder for all intents and purpose. I pulled out the multimeter and started at the ECU, checking 12V Power from all my Spark Feeds (pins 101, 103, 105, 110, 112, 114) as well as 12V ECCS inputs (pins 49, 58, 59, 109). All were between 12V-13V EXCEPT for 103, Cyl. 2 Spark, which would come in at around 5V-6V occasionally. I went about checking my ECU spark earths (Pins 1, 2, 3, 11, 12, 13) as well as Main ECU grounds (pins 50, 60, 107, 108, 116) and all checked out as earthing for 12V-13V. So, with the exception of one faulty feed, I had 12V flowing from the ECU to the Ignitor Chip, in theory, but when checking the inbound side of the chip, I had no response on every pin that was supposed to be 12V. So...my question is What Gives? Are just my Spark feeds cut somewhere between the ECU and the Chip? Or am I looking at a faulty ECU?

Recap: I have good 12V and earths on all but 1 pin FROM the ECU, but at the plug to the ignitor chip, I have no power.

Attached is the pinout guide I've been using. It says the Grounds are pins 101, 103, 105, 110, 112, and 114, But I'm getting a Solid 12V from them, and a ground at 1, 2, 3, 11, 12, 13 and 10.

post-104564-0-46278700-1366433178_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423859-rb25-r32-unique-electrical-problem/
Share on other sites

Which ECU are you using? Which RB25DET - S1 or S2? Because S2 has the ignitor built into the coil, and doesn't need the ignitor box.

Have you checked for continuity (0 ohms) along each of the wires between ECU and ignitor chip?

Series 1 RB25DET with Series 1 ECU and RB20 Harness, Ignitor Chip, Coil harness, and Coils.

00.3 Ohms resistance across all 6 feeds from the ECU to the Chip. But should those be 12V feeds? Because the multimeter shows them as grounds, not 12V feeds.

Alright, final check shows me that at the 3 pin grey plug that goes to the coil harness, as well as the 6 pin plug that goes into the Ignition chip, I don't have 12V anywhere, tested all 9 pins, no 12V feed from the ECU with key On, Off, or Cranking. Am I looking at a faulty ECU hopefully?

When measuring resistance, voltage is irrelevant.

Pins 101, 103, 105, 110, 112, 114 are for INJECTORS, not spark.

In general, the ECU does not supply power to anything, but provides a switch to earth.

By my reading of the circuit diagram, each coil gets power via a relay to pin 2. Pin 3 goes to earth. Pin 1 goes back to the ignitor module, where it eventually gets switched to earth through the ECU. Plus an earth from the coil side of the ignitor (7-wire side).

Yeah, I went through my post and a few more diagrams and realized that mistake. I'm aware resistance deals in Ohms and not Voltage, I first checked all 6 wires from ECU up to the Ignition chip for Resistance (Measuring 00.3 Ohms on all 6) and THEN checked for 12V coming out of any of the 6 wires to the Ignition Chip, and the 3 to the grey plug next to it.

So, you're saying that the earth readings at the ECU are correct, so where would my 12V feed to the ignition chip be coming from?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...