Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI all,

Was wondering if I could please canvass the community's oil usage in the RB25DET's.

Could you please frame your responses to include:

Short list of Mods:

Fuel:

Power Level:

How long the motor has been burning noticable amounts of oil (500ml+ or more per service interval):

Any contributing factors you think started causing the oil burning/ accelerated wear on rings etc:

Top-up Frequency:

What oil used:

Preventative measures you currently have in place to minimise:

Any negative impacts including reduced power levels, impact to turbo compressor etc.:

Finally as a guestimate, i reckon 5mm on the dipstick may be equivalent to somewhere between 250-500ml.

Thanks

Stock VQ25det running a GTX3076 at 32psi

United Ethanol

350awkw

Mine burns through around 1L in 4000k's. I am not worried in the slightest as it never blows blue smoke, no drips and the catch can is nearly empty.

I am using the last of my GW Sougi 6000, and will be swapping to GW synx 6000 next change. I never check the dipstick as I overfill .5L and change every 4-5k.

Thanks Scotty, since the catch can is nearly empty, I take it that the oil consumption is predominantly from the oil not being scraped entirely off the cylinder walls and hence burning off in the combustion process?

Most likely, it is a common issue with the VQ's due to thin top rings for efficiency. The bores didn't look too bad when I had the heads off, but they weren't perfect. I have no choice but to live with it, as there are no aftermarket piston options for the VQ25det's.

Thanks ARTZ, great to see you're making that power without oil being consumed.

I'm after a consensus to determine what is reasonable in terms of oil consumption.

After a good fanging i gave my car, it seemed to use between 250-500ml just over a several days.

Running 300kw, e85, 19psi - new GTX3076 turbo.

Does anyone know if blowby (without a catchcan) will damage the turbo? (I want to protect my investment)

Thanks ARTZ, great to see you're making that power without oil being consumed.

I'm after a consensus to determine what is reasonable in terms of oil consumption.

After a good fanging i gave my car, it seemed to use between 250-500ml just over a several days.

Running 300kw, e85, 19psi - new GTX3076 turbo.

Does anyone know if blowby (without a catchcan) will damage the turbo? (I want to protect my investment)

yeah, im fairly nice to my car , it doesnt get limiter bashed much and its good low k engine too....

im pretty sure the small amount of oil can actually be good for your turbo...it is however not great for your AFRs...and it lines your intercooler with oil which isnt ideal either...

just get a catch can..doesn't have to be fancy, a 30$ can off ebay, plumb it inline with your oil breather pipe and fill with steel wool to catch oil..shouldn,t cost you more than 50$ish...leave your PCV intact...at least this way you can monitor your oil usage..

GTX3076 ( used to be) 320kw's running E85, has 180k's and using Mobil 1 oil for 50k's and adding Lucus Upper Cylinder lube in the fuel, ( 1/3bottle per tank)

uses no oil, i fill to the top of the H and it stays there til next change, and stays a nice gold clean colour

If you have the blowby recirculating, then i wonder if the compressor might be actually sucking in oil from the rocker covers???

GTX3076 ( used to be) 320kw's running E85, has 180k's and using Mobil 1 oil for 50k's and adding Lucus Upper Cylinder lube in the fuel, ( 1/3bottle per tank)

uses no oil, i fill to the top of the H and it stays there til next change, and stays a nice gold clean colour

If you have the blowby recirculating, then i wonder if the compressor might be actually sucking in oil from the rocker covers???

I didn't consider that.... can that even happen? Do you have a catch can?

1993 R33 GTS-T auto (so RB25DET S1)

With ~165,000km on odo (although most likely wound back at some stage)

Basic bolt ons (TBE, POD, Boost Tee & SAFC 2)

Last time on dyno (about 2-3 years ago) made ~180rwkw

Used to mainly use Caltex 98, now I mainly use Shell 98 (V-power)

Uses no noticable oil according to dipstick (last time I changed oil about 4.8L came out), oil gets changed every ~5000km with GW Synx-3000 (10w40), before that I had the car serviced regularly at the shop but I have no idea what brand of oil they put in.

Only thing I noticed is that my oil goes dark really fast, (within 500km of driving or so).

Edited by Mayuri Krab

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...