Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have come across a smashed GTR for almost nothing but my mechanic told me the engine has a bit of a knock in it

as i was plannaing on re-building anyway

i looked around and noticed a Trust GREX 2.7L stroker kit

http://www.nengun.com/product_info.php?&pr...products_id=203

anyone had experience with em?

anyone know someone who is using one?

guy got any other ideas of what i should do with the engine?

any opinions would be great thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42410-grex-stroker-kit/
Share on other sites

Hope you have a big budget. Mrchams is using one I believe.

Perhaps before you ask people an incredibly vague question like "What should I do to my engine", you give us more information such as what sort of power you are looking for, what sort of applications you will be using the car etc.

If you plan to fit an RB26 I cant see the need for you to look at a stroker unless you are chasing some serious power ,greater than what the RB26 is capable of already, or you have serious amounts of cash to burn.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42410-grex-stroker-kit/#findComment-866817
Share on other sites

relax dude i meant in the way of a rebuild

its 9K for the kit and ive been told tough rebuilds are around that anyway so i though if thats wat im looking at why not go all out

i dont have a specific power that im chasing maybe 600hp maybe more im still looking around at different things atm thats why things are a bit vague

its not going to be a street car its going to be more of a show car/strip weapon.

i was just after some opinions thats all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42410-grex-stroker-kit/#findComment-866845
Share on other sites

And I gave you my opinion :D

The Grex 2.7 will be expensive, no way around that. Have you had a look at the rebuild packages available via Hi Octane? The prices are quite reasonable and include Venolia pistons, gaskets and other components required to rebuild your RB26.

Check out HPI, Hi Octane has been advertising their packages in the last few issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42410-grex-stroker-kit/#findComment-866854
Share on other sites

I woudlnt bother with the Grex stroker kit. It allows you to make more power by way of strength and rpm, not so much displacement and airflow.

I think you would be better of with the std crank, with rods and pistons and spending the difference on cams and headwork to make sure that the thing flows good cfm without needing to run massive boost.

Either that or do what is popular and do an RB30 bottom end, then you can pull back on a few revs and still make big power. (Keir Wilson blew up a 2.7L Grex/Trust stroker kit and ended up going OS Giken 3L. By blow up i dont know what failed...

I think there are better ways of spending the money then on a new crank that offers little displacement increase, but is good for 11,00rpm (some fanciful figure like that... think what sort of valvetrain you would need and the wear on bearings etc with such an engine)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42410-grex-stroker-kit/#findComment-866876
Share on other sites

nengun has it for $9200

thanks for your input guys

ill only be needing the parts as i have a mechanic who is more than capable of building a high hp car

Blitz - ill look into hi octane thanks for the advice

Roy - i would prefer not to go for the whole rb30 thing dunno why though lol

as i said thanks for your input guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42410-grex-stroker-kit/#findComment-866892
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...