Jump to content
SAU Community

Sticky Parking Brake

zoomzoom

By zoomzoom,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

My parking brake has recently become a bit sticky, as in when you pull the brake release, the pedal retracts very slowly and does not go the whole way by itself. I have to pull it up with my foot the rest of the way.

Ive looked under the dash and sprayed some WD on the moving mechanisms and that hasn't helped, which leads me to wonder if the problem is further down the cable.

Maybe unrelated, but I recently fitted some poly subframe collars, in which I had to lower the subframe which did put some tension on the connecting lines, like the parking brake for example. There was no difference to the parking brake directly afterwards, so maybe not related.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424151-sticky-parking-brake/
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

I cant help you but my RWD S1 auto had a similar problem. The parking brake would not release.. Could not seem to fix it so now it is disconnected.

Does anybody know how to fix?????????????????

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I pulled off the rear rotors and blew all the dust away with some compressed air, then put some anti seize on where the cable comes enters.

Didn't make a difference, unfortunately.

Will have a look under the dash again to see if anything can be done there.

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think Ive ruled out any issues with the cable and rear brakes.

When the pedal sticks, there is still tension on the cable, so there doesnt appear to be resistance in the cable. The springs in the rear brakes seem to be retracting the cable fine.

This leaves the pedal mechanism.

I would really like to avoid having to remove it.

What is the shock absorber type device? Is that purely to soften the movement of the pedal? If so, that may be a problem area. Also the spring may have weakened.

  • 2 months later...
zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well after having the pedal seize right up on me, I thought it was definitely going to be a removal job.

To avoid that, I gave the WD40 treatment another go. This time I had to lay down mats, newspaper and towels to stop the WD from getting onto the carpets. Using a bit of PVC tubing attached the can I was able to soak the pedal mechanism from every angle, completely soaking the area until the WD was running off onto the towels. Repeated a few times.

Well f**k me, it worked a treat. It freed the mechanism right up, the pedal now releases fully when you pull the brake release. My only concern is that I did wash off some grease on the pedal, so hopefully I haven't affected any lubrication points, but if I have to add some oil or grease in future its not too much a big deal.

Will report back if I actually ended up ruining the pedal, but so far so good. Beats having a stationary vehicle.

  • 3 weeks later...
webng Experienced

webng

Posted
Posted

I will be trying this on the weekend. Thanks for posting.

Figured out how to "manual" release the brake. Deep under the dash, need a fairly long flat head screwdriver there is a mechanism you can push in that releases the brake. Have had to do this more then once when other people have used the foot brake.

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There could be something like that, but I couldn't see it. Its a very difficult area to work on even if you take off the lower plastic part of the dash. I still don't know how the mechanism actually holds and releases the tension on the cable. I thought spraying lubricants might be disastrous and the brake wouldn't hold at all. Thankfully that wasn't the case.

  • 4 years later...
zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: this band-aid fix lasted 4.5 years. LOL

Just had to do a reapplication of WD40 over the mechanism again, as it seems to be binding up again with cold weather. I'm still not sure how the release mechanism works, or what's causing it to stick. But considering how much work it is to remove it, I'm not taking it out. Unfortunately, this time the WD40 trick was less effective. I might have to do a few applications.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...