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Hi guys,

So as some of you may know I've been doing bits and pieces on my car while I recover from a brain tumor. Anyway I installed -5 turbos all new gaskets and what turned out to be a shit split dump pipe, so I did that all with the engine out of car all new gaskets studs etc. it now has adaptronic ecu that jez will tune but I wanted to run it at idle to leak check before I trailer it up there. So the first time it took a few days to get it to idle and found two copper washers leaked which were new, fixed that and noticed exhaust leak from split pipes where I didn't put the bolt the retains the separation plate for stock turbos, so I installed a bolt while I had the twin turbo pipe off and was listening for another exhaust leak which I believe to be from the split dump flange itself. So I had to muck around a bit to get to to idle for a while less than 10 mins when I noticed steam due to the fact the water lines were off while I was fixing these pissy leaks. Long story short there was oil sprayed from where the twin turbo pipe attaches on both turbos so I don't really know the history of them but they are supposed to be 2000ks old which they do look like, anyway have I cooked the seals? Is it normal for some oil? Or the other thing is pressure reducer I rang gcg twice and they said I did t need one but regardless my banjo is marked j which is supposed to be r34 stock reducer? Any thoughts guy? Btw I comp tested engine and its all around 160psi each cylinder on forged engine with cams etc and I am going to buy proper dumps and piss those shit split pipes off even though they were Aussie made :-( it never went over 2k rpm and don't forget the brain tumor lol.

Scott

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Its hard to understand what you're written. I'll try to state the key info - let me know if this is correct.

- second hand -5 turbos fitted to rb26

- coolant lines not connected

- oil lines and drains connected

- engine run for 10 minutes

- oil spraying out both compressor outlets

Its not possible that you cooked the seals without the water connected. Even Garrett says the water cooling is optional, and you put sweet f**k all worth of heat through them just idling.

Unless theres an issue with your oil drains backing up I am 100% certain you were sold duds.

Yep there's a good chance they were buggered I guess I wondered why he took them off so early but they did look new in every way and span when and could hear them spoiling down even from idle but no they are like bush bearing they spin but not like they used to.

Scott

Yep there's a good chance they were buggered I guess I wondered why he took them off so early but they did look new in every way and span when and could hear them spoiling down even from idle but no they are like bush bearing they spin but not like they used to.

Scott

Since the way they spin has changed, I'd be worried that perhaps there were ok when you put them on, but have since been damaged somehow. And given that, i'd be worried about putting on a new set and damaging them as well. GTScotT has said that the coolant is not critical, so it sounds like there's some other issue with the installation. I would be checking the oil delivery to the turbos to verify its at a sensible flowrate and pressure. CRD did this on my motor after it lunched a highflow, which they replaced with -7s.

It's standard oil and water lines which were clear and functioning as it was spitting oil out so it was coming from feed lines, I have installed 3 sets of non bb turbos on a few 26's before the only variable would be a restrictor which most say is not required but maybe oil pressure pushed the seal out to cause the problem or they were faulty in some way before as they were 2 nd hand but were only run at just above idle I guess I'm lucky they didn't fail on the dyno

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