Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how can i achieve around the 260kw atw's mark with a rb25det? what mods will i need done to do this and mods to make it reliable?.

1 how much power can the internals handle in rb25dets?

2 how much power can the fuel system handle? pump,injectors,regualator)

3 what hp figure is the standard t3 turbo rated at?

cheers.

It is VERY important to get a fuel pump that not only supplies the appropriate pressure and flow, but is also less likely to fail than the std item. The fact that my car no longer has it's original motor is a testament to that.

But in order:

1 how much power can the internals handle in rb25dets?

If tuned correctly, I would suggest that they're capable of reliably making 400 engine hp.

2 how much power can the fuel system handle? pump,injectors,regualator)

Injectors will prob be maxing out at 350 engine hp, regulator....dunno....pump piss it right off.

3 what hp figure is the standard t3 turbo rated at?

Firstly it isn't a T3. It's a specially made unit manufactured for Nissan by Hitachi. It does use a T3 flange and this is where the confusion comes from. I believe it is rated at about 340hp.

Adrian

Heavy duty Clutch - $1100

Front mount intercooler - $1500

Fuel pump - $450

injectors (altho its been proven to get 250kw's out of the standard injectors, get bigger for reliability) $1000

Turbo: HKS 2540 will get you their with good tune, or if you want a more power go for the GT3040 $1500 - $3000 new or second hand.

high mount exhaust manifold: $2500

maby aftermarket head gasket. (depends on what boost you want to run) $400

Ecu : maby power fc - $1200

wastegate - $500 - $800

hks exhust cam gear - $250

3" exhaust etc: - $1500

Thoes prices are just guestimate. theirs most likely stuff i've missed

get a set of cams, tomei ones 256 - 260 or whatever the ones sydneykids says to use :)

this will increase torque over the entire rev range and on boost too

the 2540 will just be laggy, if you want the same power level get a r33 highflow it should match the power of the 2540 without the lag.

the hks3040 brand new from nengun is around 2700 not including delivery. look at a gt30 with a gcg manifold instead, probably better and more cost effective, get an external gated turbo too. or even a trust kit which includes turbo, wastegate and manifold. i wouldnt just stick to hks just cos

ecu probably power fc, hand controller and boost controller kit

other ones like wolf3d dont use air flow meter so that solves your air flow meter problem

stock r33 gtr intercooler should be ok for upto 300rwkw vs brand new aftermarket one

youll need a new or good/better clutch twin plate as stated

i would do injectors and fuel pump and fuel regualtor to be sure to be sure, saves stuff going bang

also you *may* need a different air flow meter, depending on how much boost you run, the stock 33 one will max out and only show 5volts and give the wrong reading the ecu so the ecu will underfuel

i dont believe head gasket is needed, check out below threads

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ight=power+rwkw

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ight=power+2530

for some previous configs and power outputs. get a full exhaust, hiflow cat, hiflow dump and front pipe

my info is mainly from searching on here and reading up and learning myself so some of it could be slight out or incorrect, sorry if it is

Guest INASNT
how can i achieve around the 260kw atw's mark with a rb25det? what mods will i need done to do this and mods to make it reliable?.  

1 how much power can the internals handle in rb25dets?

2 how much power can the fuel system handle? pump,injectors,regualator)

3 what hp figure is the standard t3 turbo rated at?

cheers.

Like anything the rb25 will last as long as u treat it well. Dont drive full throttle and like u just stole it all the time and it will have a long life.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...