Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's caused by having too much negative camber for the type of driving you do. If you drive in a straight line most of the time (ie, not on a track) then you cannot have much neg camber or you will wear the insides of the tyres. At the rear, the problem is made worse if you like to spin them up.

And yes, this is caused by being too low. As you lower Skyline rear suspension you automatically gain neg camber. You need adjustable polyurethane upper inner bushes at a minumum, or adjustable upper arms.

This has been discussed at great length, including recently, including the legalities of the various options. So have a look around.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6847416
Share on other sites

Have this same problem, but didn't realise until recently.

I dont track or spin the rears, just normal daily street driving. My car is lowered and has -2 camber from what was on my receipt when i got my wheels aligned after the drop.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6847803
Share on other sites

yes there are shops and i cant suggest any cos im in sydney but i just want to reiterate that if you want to stay lowered then you will have to use adjustable bushes to eliminate camber OTHERWISE if you purely want to adjust coilovers to eliminate camber you may be going back to stock height.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6848616
Share on other sites

yes there are shops and i cant suggest any cos im in sydney but i just want to reiterate that if you want to stay lowered then you will have to use adjustable bushes to eliminate camber OTHERWISE if you purely want to adjust coilovers to eliminate camber you may be going back to stock height.

How much am i looking at for adjustable bushes, and do most mechanics/tyre places have them readily available?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6849069
Share on other sites

Pretty much no mechanic or tyre place will have adfjustable bushes to suit any car (except maybe Commodores!) in stock. Pretty much any tyre place cannot be trusterd to spin spanners so discount them immediately. Pretty much any mechanic could order bushes in within a day. If you fit bushes you need a set for the upper inners and a set for the inside/front ends of the radius arms as well. This will cost you a couple of hundred.

The arms need to come off and a press used to get the old bushes out and new ones in most of the time. The labour will probably end up costing more than the bushes.

Adjustable arms that have rose joints on the end (like the GKTech ones) are not street legal. Adjustable arms with bushes (such as Hardrace ones) probably are.....but you might be in for an argument with a cop and then the pain of getting it defected and having to clear the defect anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6849111
Share on other sites

Rose joints. Heim joints. Ball joints. They're metal on metal. Really good location and articulation, but......extra NVH, they wear out because they get grit in them, they are an instant defect should a cop see them, and sometimes the cheap ones are shit quality and break.

Hard Race is a brand that does adjustable arms and the like but with hard rubber bushes in them instead of the rose joints used in most adjustable arms. There are one or two other brands out there that do the same. Bushes are squidgy material between two shells to allow arms etc to have some compliance instead of hard metal-metal contact.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6849766
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...