Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's caused by having too much negative camber for the type of driving you do. If you drive in a straight line most of the time (ie, not on a track) then you cannot have much neg camber or you will wear the insides of the tyres. At the rear, the problem is made worse if you like to spin them up.

And yes, this is caused by being too low. As you lower Skyline rear suspension you automatically gain neg camber. You need adjustable polyurethane upper inner bushes at a minumum, or adjustable upper arms.

This has been discussed at great length, including recently, including the legalities of the various options. So have a look around.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6847416
Share on other sites

Have this same problem, but didn't realise until recently.

I dont track or spin the rears, just normal daily street driving. My car is lowered and has -2 camber from what was on my receipt when i got my wheels aligned after the drop.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6847803
Share on other sites

yes there are shops and i cant suggest any cos im in sydney but i just want to reiterate that if you want to stay lowered then you will have to use adjustable bushes to eliminate camber OTHERWISE if you purely want to adjust coilovers to eliminate camber you may be going back to stock height.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6848616
Share on other sites

yes there are shops and i cant suggest any cos im in sydney but i just want to reiterate that if you want to stay lowered then you will have to use adjustable bushes to eliminate camber OTHERWISE if you purely want to adjust coilovers to eliminate camber you may be going back to stock height.

How much am i looking at for adjustable bushes, and do most mechanics/tyre places have them readily available?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6849069
Share on other sites

Pretty much no mechanic or tyre place will have adfjustable bushes to suit any car (except maybe Commodores!) in stock. Pretty much any tyre place cannot be trusterd to spin spanners so discount them immediately. Pretty much any mechanic could order bushes in within a day. If you fit bushes you need a set for the upper inners and a set for the inside/front ends of the radius arms as well. This will cost you a couple of hundred.

The arms need to come off and a press used to get the old bushes out and new ones in most of the time. The labour will probably end up costing more than the bushes.

Adjustable arms that have rose joints on the end (like the GKTech ones) are not street legal. Adjustable arms with bushes (such as Hardrace ones) probably are.....but you might be in for an argument with a cop and then the pain of getting it defected and having to clear the defect anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6849111
Share on other sites

Rose joints. Heim joints. Ball joints. They're metal on metal. Really good location and articulation, but......extra NVH, they wear out because they get grit in them, they are an instant defect should a cop see them, and sometimes the cheap ones are shit quality and break.

Hard Race is a brand that does adjustable arms and the like but with hard rubber bushes in them instead of the rose joints used in most adjustable arms. There are one or two other brands out there that do the same. Bushes are squidgy material between two shells to allow arms etc to have some compliance instead of hard metal-metal contact.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425081-tire-wear/#findComment-6849766
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
    • Thanks guys - I have been overseas for a hectic many weeks , so haven't had time to chase any of these up.  Some of the suggestions are for 4.1 ratio, which I already have, and a 3.5 at Lonsdale, which is also too tall.  Really looking for 3.9 or even a 3.7 LSD, either with M12 bolts. Will look some more.  
    • Yeah sounds like the swirl pot isn't being fed from the return line, would be made even worse by the high flow pump. 
    • This is the R32 one and the inside of the tank should look like this. which has an internal swirl pot, that the return line must empty into. (Interestingly, because the GTR tank is plastic it misses out on the swirl pot.) That is a potential cause for an aftermarket pump hanger to mess things up. Maybe the return is cut short and squirting over the side.
×
×
  • Create New...