Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale is my beloved GTR.

It has all the stuff you need, it has an Apexi Power FC with hand controller, Greddy Profec B II Boost Controller, RS*R exhaust, Splitfire Coil Packs, Rear GT wing, DTM18" Rush shadow chrome rims, Adjustable caster rods, Blistien front shocks, Sparco Racing drivers seat, Blitz BOV, Sound System, and HID kit.

It has done a touch over 151,000kms, serviced every 5000km.

The paint work on it has a couple of blemishes, but its the only thing wrong with the car. It's a pleasure to drive and has plenty of potential to be a very quick car.

Currently makes 186awkws which is quick on the street, as this is my daily driver. Please no swaps, I have a deposit on another car. I am going to be quite firm on this price as need the cash to fund my next car. And will throw in all my spare parts for the car. They will not be sold seprately:

- R33 Crankshaft

- Forged Pistons

- SARD 700CC Injectors

- Full Genuine Nissan Engine Gasket Kit

- Nismo Fuel Reg


A deposit will be taken for serious buyers.

The car is situated in Richmond / Windsor area in NSW - And I can be contacted on 0400629822 or via PM or email [email protected]

I also made a video walkaround, which I can send a link if interested.

The price of the car is $12,800.

Cheers

post-87170-0-52423900-1368695581_thumb.jpg

post-87170-0-39056500-1368695604_thumb.jpg

post-87170-0-45024400-1368695625_thumb.jpg

post-87170-0-64337100-1368695642_thumb.jpg

post-87170-0-05080400-1368695663_thumb.jpg

post-87170-0-48799300-1368695741_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425383-fs-nsw-1990-nissan-skyline-gtr-r32/
Share on other sites

Yeah the tune is conservative for reliablility. It has more potental for power and the new buyer will easily be able to unlock it with a better tune.

Thanks mate, appreciated.

  • Like 1

Yeah the tune is conservative for reliablility. It has more potental for power and the new buyer will easily be able to unlock it with a better tune.

Thanks mate, appreciated.

They come factory at 205kw so that would be safe and reliable! why down tune such a beautiful creature?

Its at the wheels. So its making a bit more power then stock.

I wanted to build it up over time, but money always being the key, I just cant do it anymore. I wanted it always to be safe power until it was built. Now it can be someone elses little project :)

They come factory at 205kw so that would be safe and reliable! why down tune such a beautiful creature?

Standard R32 GTRs with stock 10psi boost should make around 160kw at the wheels. 206kw is at the fly wheel figure.

I'm not a professional when it comes to tuning. I know the tune can be a lot better, but I know I won't blow anything up.

Plus I think its gotten a bit off topic, I'm trying to sell it as I have another car ready and would like to find a good home for it.

I'm not a professional when it comes to tuning. I know the tune can be a lot better, but I know I won't blow anything up.

Plus I think its gotten a bit off topic, I'm trying to sell it as I have another car ready and would like to find a good home for it.

sorry, didnt mean to come across talking down, rather, just another line of thought.

could you swap the factory injectors and ecu back in for a higher/factory power figure?

sell the other parts separately?

either way, its a cheap price.

glws.

Let the bloke sell his car cmon

Thanks man, its ok. Atleast they are talking about it lol.

sorry, didnt mean to come across talking down, rather, just another line of thought.

could you swap the factory injectors and ecu back in for a higher/factory power figure?

sell the other parts separately?

either way, its a cheap price.

glws.

Those parts are not in the car and not tuned for it. It was apart of the plan.

I want the car gone, and I hope the parts are a good sweetner.

Cheers man, it hasn't been too good of luck so far :P

I'm not a professional when it comes to tuning. I know the tune can be a lot better, but I know I won't blow anything up.

Plus I think its gotten a bit off topic, I'm trying to sell it as I have another car ready and would like to find a good home for it.

Like I was trying to tell the others who commented about the "low power figure". Stock R32 gtr makes around 160awkw on stock boost. So the power your car makes is completely normal. Good luck.

Standard R32 GTRs with stock 10psi boost should make around 160kw at the wheels. 206kw is at the fly wheel figure.

Standard R32 GTRs with stock 10psi boost should make around 160kw at the wheels. 206kw is at the fly wheel figure.

SHhhhh Im trying to ask the SELLER a question! I dont want to know about specs I want to ask the SELLER a question Ta Ta :)

Edited by Memphisxxx1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...