Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could anyone suggest a Tuner/Mechanic in brisy area that is knowledgeable, trustworthy and reasonable if that is possible?? I'm sure thats not to much to ask!

Just bought a 33 GTR from japanese auctions and will arrive in 2-3months and would like to find a reliable mechanic/tuner in the area.

personal expeience and feedback, negative or positive would be great. private message me if want to remain anonomous....Thanks All!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425514-brisbane-tunersmechanics-for-gtrs/
Share on other sites

Gavin Woods is the best Nissan tuner/mechanic around in my opinion, he actually drives a R33 GTR , it was previously setup for targa Tasmania,

He will know what to do with your GTR, and you wont get ripped off or stuffed around, a great guy to deal with too

Edited by AngryRBGTX

Maybe to others but the 2 I will bring mine to are both in Gold Coast.

Gavin Wood or Matt Spry.

Gavin's pretty well located as you can go for a walk around Harbour Town when he is tuning your car.

are there no good tuners in brisbane though?

so far without contacting anyone im thinking Dan @ ERD in Yatala from reading past posts or Gavin at Autotech from this and past posts plus the harbour town thing sounds great, take the misses there to blind the fact im spend another thousand on my skyline :whistling: ...booyeah!! cheers Brandon!!

Thanks for feedback

Yea Dan's closed. Dan used to do majority of my mechanical work but Hi-Power's got my business now. Honest and easy to deal with.

You might want to call Autotech and check because I recalled someone from another thread mentioned something about him and Matty Spry working together. He tuned mine ages ago and I didnt have another since.

so far without contacting anyone im thinking Dan @ ERD in Yatala from reading past posts or Gavin at Autotech from this and past posts plus the harbour town thing sounds great, take the misses there to blind the fact im spend another thousand on my skyline :whistling: ...booyeah!! cheers Brandon!!

Thanks for feedback

Yea Dan's closed. Dan used to do majority of my mechanical work but Hi-Power's got my business now. Honest and easy to deal with.

You might want to call Autotech and check because I recalled someone from another thread mentioned something about him and Matty Spry working together. He tuned mine ages ago and I didnt have another since.

Gavin uses the dyno at Hi-Power, If you ask he may let you in the dyno room to watch, I watched mine in the dyno room and he talked me through what was happening , its awesome standing next to the car

while its flat out on the dyno :yes:

Edited by AngryRBGTX

Gavin uses the dyno at Hi-Power, If you ask he may let you in the dyno room to watch, I watched mine in the dyno room and he talked me through what was happening , its awesome standing next to the car

while its flat out on the dyno :yes:

Lol its freaky to a degree.... Knowing your car is on the limit and asking in the back of your mind "Did i tighten that up"? haha

Even with ear muffs on mine is wild, you can feel it as it screams :woot:

haha, yeah I know what you mean, last time I was worried cause the I put the cams in myself and with it being all stock engine..

yeah like a wild animal, mine was really lumpy until the tune was finished, the V8 boys came out to see what was doing, and gave it the nod, reluctantly lol... :yes:

Edited by AngryRBGTX

No way I would let my car be dyno'd without being in the room. I have saved my engine, and a few others by simply checking it after each run, making sure there are no leaks, smoke, loose hoses etc.

That said it's weird having someone rev the crap out of your car on rollers, the first time you will probably shit bricks worrying it will jump off or explode. (mine has done both of these things.) :P

No way I would let my car be dyno'd without being in the room. I have saved my engine, and a few others by simply checking it after each run, making sure there are no leaks, smoke, loose hoses etc.

That said it's weird having someone rev the crap out of your car on rollers, the first time you will probably shit bricks worrying it will jump off or explode. (mine has done both of these things.) :P

yeah i think that is what happened at the Tech Night we had in NSW a month ago, a lot of first timers in the dyno cell :D

Wait, yours has jumped off and exploded? Remind me never to go near you when operating a dyno :laugh:

With this sort of power, if they don't strap the car down really well, it can snap the straps or bend the hooks which is what happened at the SAU dyno day a few years ago, the car jumped off the back when he hit the brakes. There were 4 of us trying to hold the back of the car so it didn't come right off the dyno.

I also had the cooling system explode when the head gasket let go, boiling hot coolant went everywhere.

You definitely need to be on the ball, and I can see why most workshops won't let customers in the room for safety reasons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...