Jump to content
SAU Community

Remember the gold 'BOOYA' Magna from the AIR Nat's?

whatsisname

By whatsisname,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

  • 2 weeks later...
TonyL Collaborator

TonyL

Posted
Posted

yeah, 250kw ATW with the turbo and stock internals

he's hoping for 500 or something HP with better internals

ran 15.3 at AIR with the 198HP (not sure whether at engine or not) NA build

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After looking at the dyno sheet, it appears to me that it made (on the previous engine: stock internals, injectors + bolt-on turbo) 249.9fwkw running dangerously lean!!! >14:1 A/FR is lean for an atmo engine, let alone one with forced induction!

With his new engine and turbo set-up I'd say it "should" have big potential. After all we are talking about a very close match for the Mitsubishi 3000GT engine. With his 3.0L V6 now sporting stronger internals and serious support systems to match it will be interesting to see how it goes on the dyno at Autosalon.

I dunno' about the bit on his web site about leaving "burning Skylines and WRXs on the side of the drag strip"

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

wow tough crowd here.

At least this bloke is putting in some effort for performance not rice.

And in the end fwd is no issue when you're in Alice Springs, its not like there's a heap of standing starts or corners to contend with :)

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
  • Author
Posted

In the real world (i.e no complete combustion or 100% efficient use of fuel) 14.7 AFR at the top end of an engines rev range is not healthy, be it NA or forced induction. The NA LS1 Commodore guys would be a tad worried if they were getting 14:1+ AFRs! Have a look at the BOONGA Magna dyno sheet, post turbo upgrade. Those top end AFRs look like piston munchers to me.

  • 2 weeks later...
Gold BOoya Magna Contributor

Gold BOoya Magna

Posted
Posted
In the real world (i.e no complete combustion or 100% efficient use of fuel) 14.7 AFR at the top end of an engines rev range is not healthy, be it NA or forced induction. The NA LS1 Commodore guys would be a tad worried if they were getting 14:1+ AFRs! Have a look at the BOONGA Magna dyno sheet, post turbo upgrade. Those top end AFRs look like piston munchers to me.

hence why i didnt we didnt do more then 13psi. and i did write on the dynosheet "max injector flow"... we didnt just strap a turbo on and say "its good enough"

we found a faulty earth to the pumps, which in the end killed both bosch motorsport 700hp pumps.. :Bang: ... which *may* of had a negetive effect on the final HP figure, as the computer was asking for more fuel, the pump just couldnt supply because of bad power system to it... i will only find out once i replace the pumps :rofl:

so not happy there.

im currently building the new engine with bascally every internal component replaced. aiming for 400fwkw. dyno and stip only.

on the street, the 250kw i already have is a killer!!!.. my 19's just smoke up when i lauch too hard :throwup: ... still have to refin my lauch style

Cheers for the comments :headspin:

Ben.

www.booyamotorsport.com

boj01 Experienced

boj01

Posted
Posted

No matter how much everyone bags you out, I think its an awesome car. Got looks and sounds as if it would go like stink as well. All the Skyline boys saying how its shit coz its a FWD and not giving it a chance probably think that they are the quickest car around with the only mod on their car being a cat back exhaust and pod filter. Me thinks it would leave many Skylines for dead, if it gets good traction to the ground!

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted
.....All the Skyline boys saying how its shit coz its a FWD and not giving it a chance probably think that they are the quickest car around with the only mod on their car being a cat back exhaust and pod filter.  .....

:):):D:):D:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

does this mean you only have a cat back?:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...