Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys/girls,

a few weeks back my front-right caliper started leaking fluid from the top outer piston, so obviously time for a rebuild...

Got my kit today and first time ever opening up calipers, followed a rough guide and managed to pop all the pistons out using an air compressor, replaced all the seals, but the only seals the rebuild kit didn't come with are the 2 small ones ( 8mm wide, 6mm hole, 3mm thick approx. ) I managed to have lost one when popping the pistons out. It is one of the the seals (or O-ring) that sits between the caliper split, where the fluid passage is, I went to supercheap/autobarn/autoone/bursons, and none of them supplied or could get them, the closest thing I could find was in an O-Ring assortment which is the exact same size and fit, but it is round rather than flat edged (or square O-Ring if you will).

I've fitted it on now but I'm not entirely convinced it will work as I'm still yet to bleed the system and actually test it out, but for peace of mind sakes I'd still like to get some and fit it. Does anyone know the exact measurement and/or where I could get some? I would really appreciate if you could help me out! :)

Thanks in advanced!

I would not even think about using that caliper without the correct o-ring in place.

Sadly none of the replacement sumitomo seal kits I've ever seen contain that particular o-ring.

It's ur brakes dude go buy another kit and fix it right $50 For seals is cheaper than losing ur brakes

As #@Daleo said, that specific O-Ring is NOT included in any of the kits as Sumitomo strongly advises you don't split the calipers. I've found a website http://www.mcmaster.com that definitely has the O-Ring I'm looking for (going by other forum posts, unfortunately they don't link the specific one or mention the measurements), so now I'm just looking for the measurements and I'll order them in ASAP.

If I can't find the measurements or no one knows, I'll measure them myself tomorrow night.

Thanks though guys, really appreciate it!

i have split calipers in the past, make sure you dont damage the machine surfaces and torque them up right and they should be fine, get the right seals and it should be good and just makes sure u test the brakes well!! what brand of seals do you guys use, Nissan?? the seal kit i got last year seemed like the dust seals were less of a quality than the factory ones i pulled off.

cool, where did you get them from??

They were just a lucky Ebay find; the guy was using a GT-t front cut to re-power an R31; and had no use for the brakes.

I think they'd done very little work. You can buy OEM seal kits; so they should be fine; they just don't contain the sandwich O-ring.

If you took a sample to an industrial Hydraulics Specialist (not Pirtek) that does work with large valve banks and the like; they might be able to match it up.

I guess you won't really know until it happens. And at that point it may be too late. :/

Did you soak the O-ring overnight in brake fluid prior to installation; to ensure it wouldn't swell/degrade?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...