Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day all

Hoping someone out there could share some wisdom on how to protect a painted surface from damage / flaking when tightening a bolt?

Back story - post-12947-13712875230501_thumb.jpgfitting a strut brace and trying to tighten the bolts, however as they need to be rather tight I don't want to damage the paint on the collars - painted them about 2 weeks ago and put a clear coat on aswell

I've tried rubber washers, but as the bolt gets tighter, even the rubber washer is starting to move and has started to slightly damage the paint.

Any ideas ?

Photo below is of the collars

The best thing to do, is to spot-face the hole; it's like a parallel countersink.

This will give you a flat surface barely larger in diameter than the nut/bolt head that is just below the surrounding metal.

When you tighten the bolt; the paint may end up damaged, but any damage won't propagate past the edge of the spot-face.

Thanks for the reply Dale :)

I've never heard of spot-facing? Are you able to tell me a bit more about it or how I'd go about doing it?

Is it similar to the drill bit that you would use in woodworking to widen the top of a pre-drilled hole so that the screw head goes all the way in, sitting flush with the surface? - sorry about the vague description. I'm not sure what it's called or the drill bit that does it is called either lol

The tool you're referring to is a countersink; same principle.
A picture tells a thousand words.

Exaggerated depth, it will look like this;

220px-Counterbore_Cross-Section.png

You use on of these;

solid-drill-counterbore-500x500.jpg

Or grind a drill to make one of these;
425207674_tp.jpg

Instead of rubber washers, why not try thin plastic washers (similar to those used on bike fairings). Obviously strut top mounting bolts require higher torque values (~40ft-lb if my memory is correct) but the plastic washers should still protect the paint from cracking/blemishes. I would have thought rubber washers would 'grab' at the paint, while plastic washers will slide over the surface, reducing cracks and chips.

Edited by colourclassic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...