Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have HICAS, then it's LSD. Most likely is AR-X models, however the lucky few have it as an option on the Rs/Rx.

The throttle reset is tricky to get right. Go through from the begging, ecu reset, throttle position learn, and then idle learn.

I'm giving the stag some love this weekend - will be cleaning throttle body (idle reset procedure didnt work, idles at 1400 in N), doing fluids in transmission, attessa and diffs. Do the diffs require LSD fluid?

Cleaning the throttle will only make it worse, make sure there are no vac leaks (the PCV hose is a common culprit) and no engine lights as it doesn't set the idle with an error present.

Change the transfer case fluid too. ;)

Cleaning the throttle will only make it worse, make sure there are no vac leaks (the PCV hose is a common culprit) and no engine lights as it doesn't set the idle with an error present.

Change the transfer case fluid too. ;)

Oh - I read some posts on other forums where cleaning the throttle body helped get the idle reset to work. I'll pull it apart and have a look, but i'll be much more cautious after what you've said. Will the check engine light be on in normal driving if i have an error?

I sprayed aerostart on a few hose ends but didnt get any flaring, so couldn't find a leak that way. There is vacuum at idle, so if there's a leak its not huge.

For me attessa = transfer case, so that's in the list. Might do power steering fluid while im at it.

PN-MAD - I went through "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" and "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" first - is that what u mean or is ECU reset different?

Yeah, that's what I meant.

It's pretty obvious when it does the idle learn. When hot, it revs up to 1800 rpm, then drops to the point it almost stalls, then goes back up to 600-650 and steadys. It can be hard to nail the timing, but it does work.

Last resort is get Nissan to do it with consult.

So I think I worked out why my M35 keeps throwing the code 1320. I took the coil packs off to change the plugs and half of the plugs were covered in oil on the outside. The tubes look like the seals are leaking and oil is getting past the O rings in the rocker covers.

Has anyone else experienced this? And where would i get rocker cover gaskets and the o rings.

Yes, it's very common.

But oil is an insulator, so shouldn't effect the coil packs. There is two ways of sealing. First buy whole new rocker covers. The seals are integrated. Or, two, try copper seal or something similar on the rocker covers to try to seal them.

Btw, wrong thread?

FYI - got the idle procedure to work - now idles at just over 600, and is completely smooth. Much better. Hopefully ill get more than ~300kms a tank now.... If not, ill swap the o2 sensor(s). ECU code was 0000.

Transmission fluid looked fine on the dipstick so i had thought it was probably ok, but when I dropped it, it was brown (not too dark) and stunk terribly. The transmission sump plug was completely clean, but ill do the transmission fluid again after say 500kms since its only 4 out of 10 litres from the sump each time.

Just get the Transgo shift kit done Stabby, it changes most of the fluid in one hit and is a must do mod for the M35, along with the brake wire cut. It sounds like the trans has been cooking, was there much red powder in the oil pan?

Not sure about red powder - i just dropped the fluid not the pan. Is the plug magnetic? Is the red powder metallic?

I'm trying to NOT mod the stag since its the daily. The GTR is for that stuff. Would you recommend the shift kit and brake mod for all use modes?

Edit:

PN - yep i'm in Sydney. Sounds like the shift kit is just better for any use type - right? I probably wont worry about the cooler tho since full synth fluid handles high temps so much better than non-syth stuff, and I wont be driving the stag too hard.

The trans will be fine in winter, it just needs a helping hand in summer really, to cool the fluid down and help it last. Heat is what kills auto's.

I would recommend the shift kit for any M35, however it's driven. The stock pressures are very low for comfort and soft shifts, but that is what promotes clutch wear. If the clutches go it could cost you 3-4 grand for a build, unless you can pick up a S/H one to replace it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...