Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anything I should know about doing this? Take off the wipers and then under the screws? The screws are a funny profile on the head, sorta square shaped. Are they screws or a type of automotive fixing? Just unscrew them? Just don't want to get half way through and find it's harder than it looks......

Thanks guys.

post-46395-0-38904900-1371875549_thumb.jpg

It's very easy.

Your on the right track. Remove the wiper arms first.

With the clips they're automotive fixings. Be careful when removing.

If I remember correctly it's a half turn and lift.

Remove the rubber strip at the base. There will be "T" pieces holding it on. Just stretch one way and lift off.

It's likely going to be gungy under there . Mine was dried up mould but cleaned up easy and looks great.

Ps. If you happen to loose or break one of the fixings O'briens will have some :)

Mine were easy and never looked like breaking.

When Obriens came around to put my new OEM windscreen in he was surprised that I hadn't broken or lossed any.

That's why I mentioned being careful

Any dramas leaving the plastic panel off for a while whilst exposed the rain? I note that there is a large opening under the grilled section and I'm unsure where this goes to. I presume it drains as normally water would go through the grill and into it?

After. Some surface rust which I'm wondering how to deal with. I guess to do it properly I'll have to mask, sand, and use some sort of rust inhibiting primer (which hopefully will roughly match the grey). Bottom winscreen wiper nuts are corroded so I'll loosen them and try and make sure they no not sieze and the bolt thread is still OK.

So, under that plastic panel lurks all sorts of mud and dirst and grime which idealy would get cleaned out every couple of years. Another area I've noted that traps a lot of grime is behind the tail lights. I'll get onto this fairly soon as it looks filthy in there.

I've actually covered the car with a cover whilst the plastic panel is off as I think water will get into the engine bay without it.

post-46395-0-26563100-1371968281_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-15753000-1371968290_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-61698400-1371968298_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-72897700-1371968305_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-42825300-1371968313_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Oh yeah, the rubber strip does need to come out and I found the only way to do this was to use a flat screw driver blade and carefully pry out the fixings. By the look of them they just press back in so I think this is actually the way to remove them rather than just my hamfisted ways. They are actualy integral to the strip so you can't actually get to them as they are housed within it. Anyhow hope this is helpful to other in the future.

So.......the Autobarn guy didn't really inspire me with a lot of confidence with his advice so I thought I'd come here. The question I have is how I deal with the rust. Most of it is surface but there is one small spot (say 5mm diameter) which looks a little more serious. I'm thinking I sand back the surface rust, dig out the 5mm spot, and then spray with.....?

Clearly the black cover will hide any paint I put on there but I'd prefer to keep it looking as factory as possible so can anyone recommend a product that will match the underbonet colour for a silver GTR and that will be appropriate for addressing the rust as described. I think there are paint products that actually turn rust into something benign, but are they only available in black?

Thanks.

I think there are paint products that actually turn rust into something benign, but are they only available in black?

Thanks.

fill and paint over? also, no idea what product this is but just an idea, even if this product is black then you can just paint over it again...right?

Kill rust is a clear solution you could try

http://www.wattyl.com.au/en/find-the-right-product/exterior/Metal/Prepare/WattylKillrustRustEeter.html?preview=true

Supercheap sells white kill rust epoxy enamel

Edited by BstewyR33
  • 2 weeks later...

Went the easy / smart solution and took it to Micolour to get it sorted properly. Had some other minor blenishes attended to whilst I was there and also got the front guards spaced out for tyre clearance without losing my guard liners.

Looks too good to put the gutter back on!

I get it back today and will get her cut and polished next week after the rear diff rebuild.....Look out bank account.

post-46395-0-93010600-1373061564_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-17581900-1373061573_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-45627700-1373061582_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-23689900-1373061590_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-98043700-1373061598_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-72461500-1373061606_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...