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Hey dont know if im in the right area, but i need help installing a HDI Boost controller the one with one dial.

Anyone fitted one of these before and has a drawing? Also i tried and dial is all the way down and when im in 2nd and put the foot down its like it hessitates and then BOV is a big ass air noise louder than normal

anyway hope someone can help :)

Thanks it was i had the presure line connected to the pipe connecting to the pod filter :/ all connected right now?

Hey also any ideas why my gauges turn off when headlights are on and no there not connected to the light switch just normal power and earth? dodgy brought car wiring i think LOL

that line to the pod filter needs to be blocked off..

You need the line from the OEM hotpipe to go into the boost controller and then into the turbo's wastegate actuator. Also it appears you've connected your gauge wrong, hence it turns off..

most gauges have

-ve -> goes to ground

+ve -> goes to igntion +ve

+ve illumination -> goes to light source, easiest it your cigarette ligher's light.

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    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
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