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My gauge sits pretty much at 0 almost all the time when I'm driving around normally. Only time it would go up is under hard acceleration or slippery conditions. As soon as it's disabled, rear wheels spin. So my system works, maybe not as lively as a new one (haven't flushed/bled it), but it still works after 20 years. I don't see any reason it should be sitting above 0 during as it's not meant to be transferring (as stated).

If your gauge is above 0 all the time, you have problems, unless you're thrashing it literally all the time. Pretty simple and obvious.

Note that your ATTESSA is being worn out a lot quicker, they're not designed to run all the time. Direct experience, my system randomly craps out now (warning lights, hissing from transmission, system disabled, have to power cycle the car, needs a bleed at the very least). Before I put mismatched tyres on, it worked fine with no issues.

  • 2 months later...

yes you were right put 245 all round 4wd read 0 as all my other gtr and my old gts4 did!! rims sizes turned out to be 9.5" and 10" but you still see the different stretch even with 245 40 18 tyres , im running 35psi in the front and 40 psi in rear . only have 2mm guard clearance in the rear tho :devil:

thanks blind_elk you were on the money!! also to everyone else

ps torque meter reads dead zero when cruising and under light-med acceleration unlike before - major difference!! so now my rwd switch is not always on = less fun & better power to the ground

How many f*****g times do we have to state that you need same size tyres on same size rims on all 4 corners?

Stretching a 235/40 tyre onto a 10" rim will force the rolling circumference of that tyre to be smaller than a 235/40 on a 9" rim. Result = ATTESA chaos.

The added advantage of this setup is that you can easily even out tyre wear by swapping F<>R at regular (say 5k) intervals.

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