Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys new to the fourm and the stagea family.

I have a 2001 rs4v m35 stagea wagon.

Owned it for about a month now, and I am loving it. But something has come to my attention when im on the way to work. Or anywhere for that matter my boost seams to be restricted. When I first get in the car and drive its not a worry, untill I hit full boost (on the gauge its +1 bar just over)it will hit full boost untill i stop accelerating then for the rest of the drive will limit me to the half way line on the boost gauge, it wont let me hit full boost untill I pull over and restart the car but it will be the same thing once it hits full boost again. I took it back to the place I bought it (synergy motorsport) and of course it didnt do it. No engine lights ect no fault codes ect. I dont know is this normal? Do I just install an aftermarket boost controller or is it something more sinister.

Sorry of its stupid or had been covered before but im hard pressed finding answers.

I am in no way turbo educated as this is my first turbo car, but am mechanicaly minded.

Cheers in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427603-somethings-not-right-here/
Share on other sites

Be careful, the gauge is not very reliable.

If you bypass the boost solenoid you should constantly get 14psi or there abouts. If the solenoid is closing it is seeing a boost spike, knock or some other fault signal, as it should only be closed when cold normally.

I didnt think the gauge was spot on, but its also an audible diffrence too. You can hear its not spooling as high as normal. I might try to get it upto synergy tomorrow. Its just weird. Other than that the car goes well and its not all the time this is going on. Most days it is but there were a few days it was fine and head heaps of power and awesome economy and then back to this. I also use shell vpower 98 thats what I found was best for it. Thanks for a quick reply too.

This happened on my car. If you turn the car off and on again it will reset it but will still happen. What I did was get a hdi ebc (electronic boost controller) and did away with stock solinoid. Doesnt do it at all now. A boost t will do the same. Seems to be another common priblem along with bov.

Well thats very interesting. Thanks all for the fast replys.

Im in morphett vale adelaide and work in mt barker. So would replacing the standard boost solenoid fix it or am I better off to go an aftermarket one? Like I said turbo illiterate haha.

Cheers guys

The solenoid adjusts the boost, from 7psi on the actuator, to 14psi when bleeding pressure off. If the ecu sees cold water temp, overboost, knock and plenty of other errors, it will lower the boost temporarily which is what you are seeing. If you don't want it to drop boost, just bypass the solenoid, if you want to find the cause of the error, you will need to get the ecu read on a consult 3 unit.

Ohhh right. So i just bypass it end of issues? Right cool. Will give it a crack and let you know how it all goes. Thanks so much for your direction on what to do. I just hope nothing catastrophic happens. WARRANTY hahaha.

Hey guys update.. ITS FIXED. Yay, went for a bit of a boot and it was perfect. Kept my ear out for any odd noises and couldnt hear nothing, just the sweet sweet sound of that turbo spooling. Thanks heaps i may actually be able to overtake a car on the way to work now haha. :rolleyes: FANKS HEAPS

Hey guys update.. ITS FIXED. Yay, went for a bit of a boot and it was perfect. Kept my ear out for any odd noises and couldnt hear nothing, just the sweet sweet sound of that turbo spooling. Thanks heaps i may actually be able to overtake a car on the way to work now haha. :rolleyes: FANKS HEAPS

Nice, what ended up being the problem?

Did you fix it yourself?

Hahaha awesome. I just bought a Stagea cross R35 skyline body for my rc car, will upload pics when it arrives from japan. And yeah Scotty thanks heaps for you help man. So happy the Stag is all good again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
×
×
  • Create New...