Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Robo's

Well finally did it at Calder tonight with my stock turboed R33 GTST running street tyred Sumituno's HRZ'2's with a [email protected] with a 2.02 60 foot. I was completely wrapped.

First run saw a PB of [email protected] with a 2.09 60'foot. Next run was surely a 12 second run with a 1.97 60' foot but missed 3rd gear and coasted to a 13.6. Then the final run of the night saw the above result [email protected].

All this result with the standard turbo running 13psi, still using the trusty SAFC, FMIC, Full 3 inch exhaust, Boxed up Pod, and cam gears.

Got to be happy with that :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42767-r33-into-the-12s/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well finally did it at Calder tonight with my stock turboed R33 GTST running street tyred Sumituno's HRZ'2's with a [email protected] with a 2.02 60 foot.  I was completely wrapped.

First run saw a PB of [email protected] with a 2.09 60'foot.  Next run was surely a 12 second run with a 1.97 60' foot but missed 3rd gear and coasted to a 13.6.  Then the final run of the night saw the above result [email protected].

All this result with the standard turbo running 13psi, still using the trusty SAFC, FMIC, Full 3 inch exhaust, Boxed up Pod, and cam gears.

Got to be happy with that :rofl:

Good Job! Best I could get out of my stock turboed RB25 was a 13.8 @ 104 with a 2.1 60ft. Of course my RB25 is in an S13 body so I should be a little quicker. I am running stock IC, stock ECU with no fuel correction and 3" exhaust. Looks like cam gears and SAFC should be on my list of future mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42767-r33-into-the-12s/#findComment-873475
Share on other sites

great effort robbo it means a 12 is not far away for me either had a similar mph with less power than now.

calder seem to have made the surface much better for launching heard of some great times last night dr-drifts ca datto 1600 ran 12.003 @ 113 mph on street tyres and he did a 1.7 60'. also a gtr did 11.6 @ 120 mph.

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42767-r33-into-the-12s/#findComment-873518
Share on other sites

Awesome! Congratulations, thats very impressive without heaps of mods. In NZ the quickest R33s are barely touching into the 13s :rofl:

I'm just a n00b here, but I have been quietly tracking your progress and soaking info, because I have been building up parts for my R33 - and your car for a while had very similar to the mods I decided to do for my "first stage" (cold air intake, cat back exhaust, and S-AFC2) and read quite a few posts re: your car and S-AFC tuning which looked very positive for the direction I was heading.

What clutch are you running?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42767-r33-into-the-12s/#findComment-873545
Share on other sites

Guest Robo's
Awesome!  Congratulations, thats very impressive without heaps of mods.  In NZ the quickest R33s are barely touching into the 13s :rofl:

I'm just a n00b here, but I have been quietly tracking your progress and soaking info, because I have been building up parts for my R33 - and your car for a while had very similar to the mods I decided to do for my "first stage" (cold air intake, cat back exhaust, and S-AFC2) and read quite a few posts re: your car and S-AFC tuning which looked very positive for the direction I was heading.    

What clutch are you running?

Running the Extreme Daikin Heavy duty. Its been in for nearly a year now with about 20 runs down the strip and not one problem. Not bad for $400.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42767-r33-into-the-12s/#findComment-873593
Share on other sites

Good to see another std turbo r33 into the 12's, still not sure where im gonna find a full 1sec but it'll be fun (and expensive) trying :rofl:

R33vit ran a 12.9sec on the std turbo with a "road tuned" P/Fc which is extremly impressive too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42767-r33-into-the-12s/#findComment-873716
Share on other sites

Running the Extreme Daikin Heavy duty.  Its been in for nearly a year now with about 20 runs down the strip and not one problem.  Not bad for $400.

No, not at all - I haven't had any problems with mine at all... but so far I have only been running around on stock boost, untuned SAFC and a catback exhaust - so no real stress for it YET :P I run 255s on the back so I am a bit worried that after the car is tuned with a bit more boost - it might get a bit more upset.

Anyway, keep up the good times guys! I'll watch with interest how you guys are going and see if I can get an R33 representing a little in NZ as well :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42767-r33-into-the-12s/#findComment-873744
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...