Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mine *should* have all the go-fast bits needed for a low 13sec.. and I just got a HKS camgear put in and nice tune-up and its feeling quicker than ever. I find that after the camgear it spins up a fair bit quicker to redline so was worthwhile.

So will see what i can do in a week or two :rolleyes: Poor tyres will be thing holding me back i think.

Yours is a top effort though.. no gas, no slicks! :P

Thats a much nicer curve

Yeah, cheers :P Its quite funny, because I'm (obviously) really stoked and I was talking to someone recently who realised what my new power figure was and didn't see why I was quite so happy. The power figure is good, but getting up and going - and pulling through the midrange is meaty as anything. Feels like the 2.5turbo has been pulled and a big NA motor that revs to 7000rpm has been put in, 10-11psi is being reached by 2400rpm (lower than I expected - not sure what normal is). The area beneath the curve makes it feel to me like an all around much faster car, and just more pleasant to potter around in too :rolleyes:

I definately rate dyno tuning as a very important step - even without trying it at the strip... its obviously made the car more responsive etc, which has to be worth something in practical terms.

Guest Robo's

Dyno tuning is great, the only way to go. We played around with the boost settings on mine and tried to get the A/F ratios spot on. Also had a problem with spark too. Once you experience it, you get a picture of how the car performs and everything works together. Still mine is not 100% running correctly, but im not going to get this without a proper tuning tool.

What computer you got?

i have a 4 door with full 3" crpy cat in place bleed valve running 10.5 psi

soon to have fmic and safc and sedans are 70kgs lighter plus i am doing 100k service soon so i mayswell do the cam gear at the same time, hopefully should be around that mark havnt had it down the strip yet.

i only made 195.5 rwhp with boost and exh oh and filter so hoping to get some decent hp after i/c gear safc and 100k service.

Dyno tuning is great, the only way to go.  We played around with the boost settings on mine and tried to get the A/F ratios spot on.  Also had a problem with spark too.  Once you experience it, you get a picture of how the car performs and everything works together.  Still mine is not 100% running correctly, but im not going to get this without a proper tuning tool.  

What computer you got?

Yeah, it was great having an exhaust probe in there tracking things - and spotted some shady boost behaviour etc. It lays everything out on the table for you.

I'm just using an S-AFC2 :P

Guest Robo's

Yeah its great, as soon as we started to boost mine up, it started to splutter. So out come the plugs for some smaller gaps. Fired it back up and no misses. Even tried to boost it further, it read 14.7psi on the dyno print out, shot out 216rwkw, but it had more ups and downs than a rollercoaster. So pulled it back to 13.3psi and it was nice and smooth, made a little less up top for about 500rpm , but mid range was much better.

very nice, gotta be happy with that... glad you didn't resort to using NOS :wave:
But was your 12 with NOS?

Both your posts in this thread have been questioning the validity of nitrous.

You sound like the V8 Brigade 20 years ago when they bagged turbochargers and any form of forced induction and labelled it cheating :cheers:

Nitrous is a power adder, just like turbo or supercharging. Sure, it had a more limited application, but why does that make it cheating? All you're doing is squeezing more oxygen into the combustion cylinders, exactly what a turbocharger does. Who cares whether it's because a turbine is forcing it in, or a bottle is forcing it in? It's all just oxygen.

Get with the times. No-one cares whether you used nitrous or not. All that matters at the end of the day is that they're running 10s, and you're running 11s.

11's with gas ya goose :-D

I have developed a dickhead filter that gets rid of all the anti-nitrous, anti-thinking crap that goes on in peoples tiny minds so stuff like that is really water off a duck's back. Doesn't really phase me and i no longer take it personally.

Just to shut some people up though, I am racing with some of the other guys at WSID on the 30th of this month. The plan? No gas, standard turbo, 1.0bar, 12.6 ET @ approx 108mph.

Then you can all LICK MY SWEATY 11 SECOND BALLSACK!!!

:cheers:

Adrian

Maybe I am old fashioned (at 23 years young), but with NOS you can sit there all day running the same time, after x amount of runs you will run out, and need to refill the bottle... relational to consistency if you ask me.

I don't disagree with NOS, I just think it is should be treated separate all together... its non street legal, same as slicks etc...

The only time you can use it, is on the 1/4 mile strip.... (same with slicks) you are changing your car from being a street car to a non-legal street car - and in doing that you are putting yourself up against all the other non-legal street cars, which run much quicker cars.

I'm not big into the drag scene, so all this speaking is probably coming from inexperience (but it is all my opinion after all... we are all allowed those right?) I do want to get down to the strip and see what I can run (I believe it does take more skill than what it looks like), but I’m more interested in doing it on full street trim, so I know how quick my car is, all the time, not if I put slicks on, take out the spare tyre, etc...

I believe the race track is a better indication of how good a cars performance is (all round) NOS isn't much good on there.... I have mates in their LS1s which are quick.... in a straight line only...

The times 2rismo is running are better than I could do in my GTR (current state), and the times you will do merli will probably be better than I’ll ever get to... just opinion/thoughts.... I know I’m not alone in this thinking.

PS 12.6, no nos, standard turbo - that's impressive, must be some driving skills there

erm - ferni.. but legally just changing your stock airbox to a pod in some states may be "illegal" and "non street legal". Its a bit silly to classify it like that.

I find it hard at the drag strip to "feel" the car as much with the helmet on.. to know what its doing, to tell if its even really if its spinning the wheels. On the street you'd tell straight away and back off, but when you're relying a lot more on instinct and practice its like a very closed environment. So it does take good practice to get it right i think in the full dragstrip environment (helmet on, etc)

deano, i was reffering to the question from BOOSTD about who was first to run 12.x on std turbo. I have absolutely no idea. Get it?

And ferni, if I run my car without gas, with my spare in the boot etc but still have an externally venting BOV, is it in street legal trim? Very poor effort in classification, dude.

Adrian

PS 12.6, no nos, standard turbo - that's impressive, must be some driving skills there

Thanks but I'll let you know if I do it or not. I have run 12.6 @ the same mph as I run "no-gas" but as the WOT switch was playing up and i had it armed with the intention of using it, I wont claim it till i've done it - a problem that is rife on this forum.

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...