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Hi,

I am about to install some GT2860R turbos on a R33 GT-R VSpec and would like to use some restrictors.


I already used a restrictor in conjunction with steel braided turbo lines on a CA18DET engine with a GT28R turbo and never had any issues.

Hence I would like to use a restrictor again.

I read here that R34 GTR's have a restrictor in the banjo bolt which is screwed in the block as R34's have ball bearing turbos and R33 and R32 don't.

However I checked the parts catalogue and to my surprise both the R33 and R34 have the same oil lines and oil banjos (all of them).

http://nissan4u.com/parts/skyline/er_r33/1997_8/type_1/engine_mechanical/turbo_charger/illustration_1/

http://nissan4u.com/parts/skyline/er_r34/1999_10/type_1/engine_mechanical/turbo_charger/illustration_7/

Garrett states that many passenger cars need a restrictor of 0.040" diameter as the pressure entering the turbo shouldn't exceed 40-45psi in a ball bearing turbo.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/oil_restrictor

So what kind of restrictors are for sale which will suit the R33 with stock turbo lines?

Alternatively I could press a round fitting with a 0.040" hole in the stock banjo bolt?

Or do you recommend to switch to steel braided lines? SR20 and CA18 folks are usually switching to steel braided lines as the old lines clog up.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427906-gt2860r-oil-restrictor-question/
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No Need for oil restrictors. They already got a .5mm oil restrictor built into the thrust pin.

So why Garrett states that GT turbos need a restrictor if the oil pressure exceeds 40-45psi?

I think they should know their product best?

I have just been going through this with a set of -5's. Spoke to a guy at Garrett and he said that everyone seems to think that Garrett turbos have built in restrectors but they DO NOT! And yes he also said thy should not flow more that 50 psi at full revs. Your turbos will run fine without it but you will shorten there life. He sold me 2 1mm restrectors that you pop into the oil line at the turbo. Problem is they are built for an M4 fitting and I don't think that will suit the standard oil line fittings... May need some new lines with some M 4 fittings. Cheers

  • 4 weeks later...

I'm also going through this atm and have been for a while now. If you want to use stock lines etc get a machine shop to tap a grub screw into the centre of your banjo bolts and drill the appropriate sized hole through that. You can then also remove them later if need be.

So it worked Portaz? Good to hear.

I just finished a GT35 install that billowed smoke both ends without the restrictor, a .9mm fitting later and it was perfect, other than the exhaust being full of oil. :/

Yes the two best ppl are Scotty in above post and jez. In my case it was completely custom as I used stock lines, we put restrictors in different place than usual for serviceability and cause turbos were installed. We agreed in 1mm restrictor in each turbo as my engine has huge oil pressure way more than garrett recommend. The actual physical restrictor I left to jez and he re installed it and measured flow from return to be sure as he is very thorough . It flowed 450ml per minute at idle so we are pretty sure that is perfect. There is so little "actual " info out there and many conflicting stories . If your using braided lines its not so hard as there is a restrictor on the market. Although factory lines different story. I can also confirm that r34 main banjo is 5.6 mm as are 32 and 33 but they may be restricted on the top feed but I can't confirm for sure.

Scott

No worries mate, glad to help. If I use braided I prefer to run a small inline filter before the restrictor, just to minimise the chance of it blocking. I have had too many oil supply issues with turbo's due to restrictors...

Is the car on the road now? Where is the graph? :P

Yeah I know what you mean about lack of info. I have searched the web over and it seems that like with everything else the more people you talk to the more opinions you get lol. How bad is your pressure portaz?

When cold even idle is 100psi probably when warmed up correctly around. 40 psi and I have 3 oil pressure gauges at different spots in the system to confirm but is say at 9000 would be 90 Ish psi but jez will confirm tomorrow but either way alot more than garrett recommend.

Yeah I'm pretty sure I have the same problem. original pump had 115psi at idle needless to say I pulled that off and put an N1 pump with jpc gears but I'm pretty sure my pressure is still high. I need to get a proper oil pressure gauge on to check but just going off the stock gauge with new sender it sits just below 4 which I'm pretty sure means its sitting on 40+ at warm idle.

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