Jump to content
SAU Community

help desperately needed

hotsky

By hotsky,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

hotsky Community Regular

hotsky

Posted
Posted

ok... now i got my line delivered to me finally on friday morning, i cant do ANYTHING in it AT ALL because the battery is TOTALLY dead!!! they obviously didnt disconnect it when they shipped it!

now, what we did is jump it and ran the car just idoling for about 1 hr or so, then went for like a 10 min around the block cruise.....came back home and turn off, try to turn back on, and NOTHING..not even asseccorie lights...like it was b4 we jumped it....now my questions!!!

1: is the battery just cactus and i need to get another one??

2: can i charge the battery inside overnight, on a slow charger, like a normal car batery?

3: if i was to charge overnight, i was told that to charge a battery you have to unscrew the little plug things on top so you can airate the water section etc...... BUT this battery doesnt have 'plugs' doesnt seem to have water at all, does this mean its a 'drycell' and if so can this be charged.

appreciate everyones help, as i really want to get this beast going asap :)

its 1994 R33 2.0 litre gts auto

brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4280-help-desperately-needed/
Share on other sites
hotsky Community Regular

hotsky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i though of poss the altinator, but was told that even if the altinator was on its way, that you would still get the grrr grrr noise when you try start it or something, but was NO life at all, what i am really wondering is though especially anyone who has an R33, can i just bring the battery inside the house, and put it on a batt charger, without it exploding???? AND another thing!!

what the hell is the clear tube thing that comes out of the side/top of the batt, and then down into the floor of the boot section?? is it a air tube or water tube or something?

inark Grand Master

inark

Posted
Posted

fuse?

my old car blew a fuse and did the same thing... couldnt start it at all... no lights... jumped it and did the same as u... with the same result... check them first before buying a battery.

hotsky Community Regular

hotsky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for that Grim :) i thought i should have just posted it here!!

thanks for your replies guys, as you could imagine how frustrating it is to finally get it then cant even press buttons to see what they do hehehe

i would think that the batt is fully discharged like NRB said, and i wouldnt like to take the chance of trying to recharge the thing inside the house, then having it explode or something because it doesnt have water or some crap like that

ok this being the case(yep i am anewbie to the line scene) where can i get aother batt for the R33 and how much? does it have to be somewhere special or just normal battery ppl?

seriously appreciate this guys, cause soon i will be able to cruise with yas

brad

hungry6 Experienced

hungry6

Posted
Posted

it's a dead battery dude. and if your getting a new one , spend the money and get a oddyssey since they are gel type of battery and 100% maintainace free and doesn't spill acid inside the car when your pulling those huge Gs cornering.

hotsky Community Regular

hotsky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cool bannanas...i have resided to the fact its a total bat flattery!! :) now (sorry bout the q's)

but where do you know of i can get one, anywhere special or just normal places? i in vic

i have a dodgy pic i just took for the sake of it tonight of the car if your interested :)

better ones will follow

skyzerr33 Grand Master

skyzerr33

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by akeenan

If you can find a sealed battery for 80-$100 i will be very suprised i got mine at trade price and that was $120.... the plastic tube attached to the top of the battery is an is tube!!

i have the receits at home. I'm in WA so we may get em cheaper

dAVE Grand Master

dAVE

Posted
Posted

my battery got flat pretty soon as well. Just plugged it into a battery charger that was plugged into the powerpoint. Worked fine after that. I was getting power to the car tho, and it was cranking.. just..

I have a drycell battery, but the terminals are too big for the little clamps on the r33. Anyone know the easiest way to get them to fit.. do i have to buy new clamps? If i do, how do i connect them to the wire...

steve_R32 Enthusiast

steve_R32

Posted
Posted

Too easy, just done it on my 32......

I bought some gold terminals from dick smith, cant remember the price... but simply cut the old terminals off (and not to mention my std battery was COMPLETELY dead too, wouldnt hold a charge at all) stripped the wire back a bit, and undid the little allen key things, put it in. Too easy. They have smaller allen key parts for the other smaller wires that go to the ignition and what ever else you want to wire to them.......I'll post a pic, have a look.....

Steve

steve_R32 Enthusiast

steve_R32

Posted
Posted

Sorry, i didn't make it clear in that last post, but the std battery (with the small japanese terminals) was roooooted. I bought a new aussie battery, and up-graded the terminals at the same time, so it all fell into place.

If you have any Questions, ask away ;):P

Steve

Guest GR33DyMANGO

Guest GR33DyMANGO

Posted
Posted

as hungry6 said:

"if your getting a new one , spend the money and get a oddyssey since they are gel type of battery and 100% maintainace free and doesn't spill acid inside the car when your pulling those huge Gs cornering."

how much do theses batteries cost?

ta:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...