Jump to content
SAU Community

Ford Twin Thermo Install ?

Rob_C110GTR

By Rob_C110GTR,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rob_C110GTR Community Regular

Rob_C110GTR

Posted
Posted

Hi

I'm wanting to install a ford twin thermo fans in my R32 with RB25

Stock fan was removed by previous owner , and I've got a twin thermo ready anyway so thought might just use that. And I've read the stock fan vs electric fans debate.

Anyone here done this swap ?

1. I would like to know how do you mount the twin thermo shroud to the radiator after trimming it?

2. How do you wire it up so that if the switch fails the thermos will run constant while the engine is running.

I've read that you can replace the bottom radiator hose switch with a tridon model and hook this up to switch the relay and then the fans on.

Anyone know which tridon switch? Is it the TFS141?

What happens to the wire connected to the old switch ? Or do I just reconnect that and splice a new wire to go to the relays.

Also the thermo fans are dual speed, how do I get that working properly with the wiring?

Thanks in advance and sorry if I've asked too many questions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428142-ford-twin-thermo-install/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

2. How do you wire it up so that if the switch fails the thermos will run constant while the engine is running.

You DO NOT need the fans running while the engine is running. It simply defeats the purpose of thermo fans, namely to control a severe overtemp occurrence. Normal movement of the car keeps the engine to the thermostatted temp. The only time you need the fans is when the engine gets a bit hot during stop-start heavy traffic.

A secondary benefit is to free up a few kW by removing some load from the engine. Having the fans running all the time simply moves the load on the engine from the water pump to the alternator. I wish people would accept this wisdom from a 40year veteran of driving and playing with cars.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

That's ONLY IF the switch fails as I mentioned

Just because the switch fails doesn't mean you need the fans on. So the engine gets a bit warm in heavy traffic, it won't kill it. Once the car gets moving again, temps will fall back to proper levels.

You DO NOT need the fans on permanently, EVER.

Rob_C110GTR Community Regular

Rob_C110GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've been looking at tridon dual switch

Which one would be best suited for the rb25

I can get one if those radiator adaptor that you fit between the hose but they all have only 1/8 npt thread. That can be fixed by tapping a new thread.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

Just because the switch fails doesn't mean you need the fans on. So the engine gets a bit warm in heavy traffic, it won't kill it. Once the car gets moving again, temps will fall back to proper levels.

 

You DO NOT need the fans on permanently, EVER.

I would have to disagree to a certain extent. The stock fan is moving all the time, just moves faster when hot. If you use the aircon you want the fan moving all the time, regardless of speed or engine temp, plus if you have a fmic then you have reduced airflow through the radiator, etc.

Don't get me wrong, I've seen the thermofan operating specs for a different car and you are correct in a lot of what you say. When the aircon is off then they only operate if the temp is over a certain amount, and speed is under a certain amount (I have a screenshot of it on a computer somewhere). Having said that, it's been a while since I looked at it, but I sort of recall that they work at full speed at low vehicle speed and low speed at high vehicle speed (so not fully off). When the aircon is on then they operate at full speed, regardless of vehicle speed (only when the compressor idea engaged though I'm guessing). I may be wrong about some of that though. As I said it's been a long time since I looked at it.

But at the end of the day, being able to run the fans all the time as a failsafe isn't a bad idea. I'd prefer it to running the risk of boiling the engine in the event of a failure. Not to mention that it would act as a way to let you know that something has gone wrong.

SMOKEYV35 Mentor

SMOKEYV35

Posted
Posted

I have used a Drift brand digital fan controller on BA thermos before with great results. Has some nifty features like set the temp the fans switch on, digital display of current temp, alarm warning for over temp (you set). Cost about 160 iirc. From autobarn.

SMOKEYV35 Mentor

SMOKEYV35

Posted
Posted

Not sure - you'd have to research - it was about 3 years and 5 cars ago lol.

I liked that it gave me a reference point in the cabin. I could see the temp and when the fans were on. Could also manually override if needed. I was too worried about something failing, the fans not coming on and me not noticing until too late.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manur33
      Rb25det coil loom wire identification

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • davemoto63
      Stagea choice's which model??

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • davemoto63
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...