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R33 Series 1

The motor and gearbox on this car is in excellent condition only thing damaged was the side of the drivers due to accident on the track hence trying to salvage. Everything is still working on the car and it pulls 340kw with dyno sheets. Car still drives fine. The car also still has 2 months rego remaining for anyone interested in the shell. Parting everything

R33 RB25 Series 2 Motor Engine rebuilt with forged pistons $1200 - No Coilpacks

EMS Stinger ECU

Damper Master Coilovers - $700 1000km use

Lenso D1R 18" Wheels

1200cc injectors

Garret GT 30\76R Turbo - $1300 1000km use

Nismo r33 Cluster $350

Greddy LS intercooler kit - $500 20km use like new.

Tripple plate clutch

Manual gearbox Series 2 - $1000 perfect condition

Front bar $150

Rear bar $150

Tail Lights $200

wing $100
Side skirts $100
CD player surround $70

Centre console $80
Front seats $150
Rear seats $100
Boot hatch $80
Skyline rear centre garnish $50
Door window $100 each
Window regs $100 each

Tail shaft $120
Starter motor $100
Front and rear Brake Calipers $350

Alternator $100
Brake rotors x4 - $200
Hubs $300
Rear cradle $50
Front lower control arms $70 each
Seat belts x 4 $150

Passenger door card $80

Passenger side window switch elects $50
Window switch surrounds $80 each

Steering surround $50
AC control unit $80
Window wipers $20 each

Side mirrors $90 each
Fuel cap $20

Fuel flap $60
Bonnet latch $50
Boot latch $50
Power steering reservoir $150

Top dash AC vents $20 each
Turbo Lines $40
ABS Box $200
Glove box with working latch $50
Fuel Pump $50
Fuel pump cradle $75
Antenna $75
Lock set (steering lock, door locks, boot lock with key) $200

Passenger side headlight $100
Power steering rack $100
CAS $100
VCT Solenoid $70

All Prices are Negotiable ! just want to get rid of this shit

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R34 GT 2 Door N\A Auto series II

Car is complete no damage. Silver in colour.

Xenon Headlights - $900complete set no scratches perfect condition

Complete Doors - $400 each

Mirrors - $100 each

Boot + Spoiler - $350

Rear Bar - $100

Front Bar - $350

Side Skirts $200 a pair

Tail lights - $400 Pair

2 Side guards - $400 Pair

Front seats - $400 pair ( drivers minor wear n tear )

Rear Seats - $100

Air con pump - $120
Brake master cylinder - $200

Glove box- $100

Intake Air Box K&N filter - $120

5 Stud - $500

RB25DE Motor $800 - missing manifold and intake pipe to airbox

Auto transmisson $200

Xforce exhaust system $400

Things sold - Bonnet, Jet washer , manifold, intake pipe, cat converter

All Prices Negotiable. Need space.

  • Like 1

R34 bonnet,jet washers,manifold,cat converter,door window switch passenger all sold.

Alot of interests in the GT3076R kit on the 33.

Comes with manifold,gate,dump,intake pipe all customly fabricated

this set up made 340kw have dyno's as proof.

$1800

R34 Lenso wheels with 50% tread $900 18x10 +35 all round. Xforce Exhaust $300

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Lenso D1R $800 18x10 +30 Front +35 Rears with tyres.

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R33 Front brake set 150 ea or both for $250

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master damper coilovers

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R33 Greddy Fmic

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Garret GT 30\76R Turbo Kit - Comes with dumps , fronts wastegate custom intake pipe pod lines etc. $1700

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R33 Series 2 Gearbox

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R33 Series 2 Motor Forged CP Pistons 1200cc injecters, Candy red covers

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R33 Dash $100

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R33 Fenix radiator

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R33 Non rolling shell has 2 months rego remaining $200 or it's going to scrap metal

Negotiable on prices.

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    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
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