Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just don't want to see you get stung .

I am considering a GTR as my next car too, but anything that hasn't had a rebuild I am automatically factoring that into my budget as a future cost. I see it as a question if 'when' not 'if'.

If you're not able to diagnose it - paying for someone who knows their stuff to give it a once over could be a wise investment.

Yer if I choose to accept the challenge of the car I will be factoring in the rebuild, hence why I haven't bought it yet, and will be taking it to a specialist to diagnose the noise, so far have came up trumps with a video, they all really need the car to sort it out correctly.

Maybe ask the owner if you can bring someone out to the car and remove the cam gear/timing cover?

Would be an easy way to check for rubbing, belt condition and deflection.

There would surely be a member in your area who would do it on a Sunday arvo for a slab.

That noise sounds like what my car does but worse, mine has 180k's , new belt and no cover so be interested to know what causes the noise,

any pics of the car?

Edited by AngryRB

Will upload pics tomorrow as busy today and not at home. Pics on phone are too large.

As per k's visually engine bay and noise is not reassuring but everything else looks mint... Under the dust.

Edited by dbking82

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
    • This is why you flex fuel it...
    • That is what I took from it too. Needed to go AWD S14 imo.
×
×
  • Create New...