Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just looking for advice on what products/brands to chase in my pursuit of tastefully modifying the skyline. Im particularily chasing DECENTLY priced parts that do the job. ( not budget/ not expensive ).

Im not looking to make it the fastest thing on the planet, just enough to give it a more enjoyable bit of go.

Suggestions/comments please on:

- Turbo

- intercooler

- injectors ( if there is a specific brand to chase )

- intake

- brakes

I was looking to get a fuel management tune at croydon since i currently drive 100 km to and from work using the freeway haha, comments suggestions.

If anyone has a better/decently priced workshop other than croydons in sydney please let me know, i dont really want to get ripped off.

Thanks in advance for all the comments and help i recie e on this, its greatly appreciated as i am just entering this scene again after an international two year break.

Cheers guys !!

Josh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428950-r34-gtt-modification-advice-needed/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Since you live in the Southern Highlands Josh, the nearest to you will be...

* JEM at Ingleburn then...

* Dart Automotive at Punchbowl then...

* Unigroup Eng. at Girraween then...

* DVS_JEZ at West Gosford

I'd talk to all 4

Names are (from the top), Adam, Jim, Yavuz, Jez

Also, it will be mentioned that this topic has been covered many times! It is probably one of the most common questions and all the answers you require can be found here on SAU.

First of all if you are modifying any car (Especially a GTT) take the words budget and cheap and remove them from your vocabulary! lol

The shopping list you have started with shows the major parts but you need to upgrade all the supporting mods around it!

You will need a fuel system (njectors, pump etc), you will need a new clutch (Generally stock wont hold more power), you will need some form of ECU (Nistune will probably do you) and THEN you need to start shopping for all the bolt on bits! I would suggest keeping with direct bolt on parts if you are trying to save on cost, get something like a Hypergear high flow (Stao is a forum trader too) and then work from there...

You need to let us know what sort of budget you are looking at and we can give you an idea of what you can and cant do.

Just because you gain power, doesnt mean you should lose fuel economy! Any good tuner should be able to get you both!

  • 1 month later...

I've been down a long and costly tune with my GT-t.

Firstly - decide where you want your car to end up - THIS IS CRITICAL as it will determine not only how much you spend, but more how much you will save by not wasting time with parts that only work for a while...

That said, if anyone asks me the single best mechanical performance mod i did to my GT-t; the oil cooler. First track day i took it to temps were hitting 130 - 140 degrees.
Trust oil cooler in - they never went above double digits again.

Aside from that - don't piss about with rubbish ECU's - just go straight for a G4 Plug in GT-T link. This made a massive difference to the tune, as the previous unit (Power FC) was struggling and surging badly after we threw tomei type b cams into it.
Also to note, the ECU is THE most important part in tuning GT-T's; the factory ECU retards timing and generally misbehaves if it detects excessive air flow - so even fitting a cat back or straight through exhaust, will do more harm than good if it isn't tuned in.

Aside from that - good fuel system (injectors, regulator, pump) aftermarket coils and CORRECTLY GAPPED plugs are all things to consider.

All up, mine made around 290ish kw at the wheels on a dynapack hub dyno...

Can't really grumble:
http://social.nengun.com/member/ares/my-daily-gtt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...