Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm going to install my Tein EDFC over the weekend, I'll be putting the controller in my DIN pocket, but I'm just wondering where is the best place to source constant power, accessory and illumination from?

I can splice into my headunit loom or my MFD loom, but is there another easier place inside my dash that has all those wires?


Cheers

I reckon it would be easiest to just splice into the audio. Your installing the controller in the din pocket anyway and the less wiring you have to run the better imho. I used to install mobile phone kits for a living in a past life and it was always an easy convenient source for constant accessory and earth. Not to mention a good place to mount the control box as well. The only thing I would check before you do is the current draw of the EDFC to make sure you aren't going to overload those circuits otherwise take +ive and acc directly from the ignition switch and fuse accordingly.

Edited by NeilC

As above, use the radio for your constant power. Switched power can be sourced from the cigarette lighter, while I got my illumination 12v from the ring of light around the cigarette lighter, that's the single pin plug.

Do just make sure you check the current draw, especially if you tend to use the cigarette lighter for a GPS or other accessories, you might find it starts blowing fuses often if you overload it. But I think the Tein EDFC is a simple unit, I can't see it drawing a load of current.

  • 3 months later...

i believe the EDFC takes constant 12V and a wire for ignition... else the settings will reset each time u turn off the engine.

careful how u wire it cos if the current is not stable... each time u crank u might get error beeps...happened on my S13 before...

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...