Jump to content
SAU Community

Tyre Prices

No Crust Racing
 Share

Recommended Posts

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They'd be track only, I have street rims and tyres.

What sort of rubber do you think I can get away with fitting on 8" fronts and 9" rears?

At the moment it's 235s all round.

Do you know what money the Kumho's run?

Those FZs still look to be good value to me.

sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted

They'd be track only, I have street rims and tyres.

What sort of rubber do you think I can get away with fitting on 8" fronts and 9" rears?

At the moment it's 235s all round.

Do you know what money the Kumho's run?

Those FZs still look to be good value to me.

Depending on your suspension setup, I would try and stay away from a staggered setup and run the same size front / rear.

hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted

Agreed Harry, so I'd like to hear from people who have used the new compound, I'm OK with it being slower than competing products because it's so much cheaper.

It's all relative. I didn't build up a Silvia and use RS-Rs because I'm trying to be the fastest guy out there lol

What do you think is a good bang for buck tyre Harry? What are you running?

Sorry, I've been away taking advantage of the great weather camping up at Rainbow beach.

I bought a set of the good/early FZ201M back in 2010 and used them up until I sold the 180SX in the middle of 2012. They were still setting PBs. I loved them. I would have bought another set without hesitation except the bloke who initially put me onto to them (who also drives an S13) told me they'd changed and were about 3 sec a lap slower now, and probably slower than RSR's! I've since heard nothing but bad things about how slow they are from everyone else who has bought a set of FZ201 recently.

We're in the same sort of boat - I'm just tracking a car for fun. Hey, it's a stock automatic Soarer. I just want a cheap set of semis. Don't have to be the fastest things in the world. The other tyres at the lower end of the market are Toyo R888 and Nitto NT01. They're both made by Toyo, in the same factory in Japan. They both have the same construction. They both have the same treadwear rating. They have different patterns. I used the R888 ont he 180SX immediately before I bought the FZ201. At the time I hated the R888's, but they turned out to be only a few tenths slower than the good FZ20'1s. It's just that the car felt loose on the R888 and glued to road on the FZ201's. So I priced them up and went with the NT01 on the off chance that they are better than R888. It was under $1200 delived for a set of 245/40 R18 NT01s. I haven't used them yet though.

But since I bought them a mate got hold of a set of 17" Hankook Z214 2 groove 'cheater slicks' for not much more than what I paid. These Z214 are cheaper than the Z221 which is true semi slick. They are also faster. If you don't need road legal rubber, these things are the best bang for buck at the moment by a long margin. They're probably the fastest tyre out there and also one of the cheapest.

hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted

surprisingly well I think. On cheapo road tyres (235/40R18 Federal 595SS and 265/35R18 Achilies ATR Sport 2) it ran 63.7 last time at Lakeside.

Totally stock apart from Tein S-Tech lowering coils (which I cut to be about 20mm lower again) and a HKS SLD. Everything else including the whole exhaust system, air filter, boost, brakes - everything are all standard. I fitted the factory optional Torsen LSD, if you want to count that as a mod. Only other non standard stuff is a seat and a wheel.

I have BC coilovers and the NT01s at home which I'll fit before the next track day. I'll be dissapointed if that doesn't get me 3 seconds over the shitty street tyres, which would put it solidly in the mid 60s. But we'll wait and see.

To put that in perspective, my 1250 kg 180SX which supposedly had 200rwkw and heaps of aftermarket suspension, R32 GTR brakes, cage etc, ran 59.8. on R888s.

hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted

Give it a go - they work alot better than people expect.

Bit of a blog on it here showing the progress in laptimes as I do one mod at a time - http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67288773-Shitbox-Soarer-street-track-project-sixty-second-slushbox&highlight=

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...