Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I intend using a 1.3mm metal head gasket with CP 86.5mm 8.5:1 pistons in my RB26.

Can you let me know which compression ratio I will have with a standard non skimmed head?

All the compression ratio calculators are asking for data which I couldn't find, hence me asking here.

Just want to make sure that the compression ratio won't drop too much as I already bought the head gasket but not the CP pistons.

Would you therefore recommend running 9.0:1 pistons or 8.5:1? Installed GT2860-5 turbos already.

Thanks!

Edited by Behind Horizon

Piston selection is going to make more difference than your choice of head gasket - why would you not be using the higher compression pistons?. Should have bought the pistons before choosing head gasket. Presumably you can return the head gasket if it is not suitable. What compression ratio do you want and what fuel will you be using?

The cometic head gasket I have came together with a RB26 complete engine gasket kit from which I used already half of the gaskets.

Hence I can't return the head gasket and would like to use it.

CP piston data SC7310:

Bore (in): 3.406 in.
Bore (mm): 86.500mm
Piston Style: Dome, with no valve reliefs
Piston Material: Forged aluminum
Compression Distance (in): 1.193 in.
Piston Head Volume (cc): -16.20cc

Check the attachment for other data.

I couldn't find data for the deck height so I assume it must be close to original with these pistons as their compression ratio is 8.5:1?

post-38112-0-93146900-1376831239_thumb.jpg

Edited by Behind Horizon

Still think you're complicating things unnecessarily. If there is nothing strange about your build you would expect 8.5:1 pistons to give you a CR of 8.5:1 and 9.0:1 would give you 9.0:1.

In fact there may well be a small variance but I defy anyone to calculate it - you will have to measure it when the pistons are installed.

^ I looked it up, and most people that actually real world tested it said 63 +/- 1.5cc.

But for the sake of calculation, using 70cc spits out 8.02:1. Again with 0mm deck clearance.

Edited by Shoujiki

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...