Jump to content
SAU Community

Need A New Turbo! What Do I Buy?

2000 RS

By 2000 RS,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

The workshop im sending my car too works mostly with rb engines, they have drift cars also.

They have worked with alot of HG turbos, they say they cant get no where near the figures HG have posted on the net Plus the front housing on HG turbos are to big for my application as i am not running a top mounted turbo.

I don't remember sending turbos to that workshop. for stock manifold internally gated results they all matched up pretty well, and many are taken from customer's cars, So unless they are referring to externally gated results, then they can't reach that unless using the same mods running at the same boost level.

I take precise measures when quoting up people with the estimated HP to boost level, which is the reason that I asked alot of questions, based on data give the GTx3076 is not a very good turbocharger for internal gating, specially working with factory exhaust manifold. With the larger cams and type of pistons that I've been told (unless they are wrong) I believe its going to run extremely hot in upper rev range, wither 330rwkws on pump fuel is archiveble or not is questionable. I have so far never seen 330rwkws on a GT3076 on pump 98 running stock exhaust manifold and internal gate.

Which I'm pretty sure they will be pushing to sell an externally gated high mount setup in very near future.

2000 RS Enthusiast

2000 RS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So much love from you guys.

ok so how much can you guys get a garret gtx3076r for? How much did i get ripped off?

You think i got ripped off with everything on my car, i have to pay for labour as im not a mechanic.

Im not the sorta person to ask mates to work on my car, all my close mates are into v8 holdens im the dark horse.

4bidn1 Mentor

4bidn1

Posted
Posted

There is love mate your a top bloke with a really nice stag ! All i can see is helpful advice and direction , every one has been "ripped" b4 or at least pay full price, but isn't everyone's goal the best performance for $$$ value , most of the advice that's been given is with no strings attached ppl just wanting to see you achieve your goal the easiest way

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

4bidn1 said it well. No ones hatin'.

You asked a question, got an almost unanimous response, then ignored it anyway.

I'm not sure if you've spent some time in the HG thread in, but go have a look at the results Stao and many others are getting.

And more importantly have a look at the times some people are running, including Stao. They correlate with the stated horsepower very closely. What I take from that is Staos products are no bullshit. They work terrifically well, take massive abuse, put out the power Stao claims and all at around 60% the price of a Garrett equivalent.

Stao invests massive amounts of time and money into developing turbos for RBs and the results speak for themselves.

jet_r31 Mentor

jet_r31

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yep im not hatin just..loling. You bought the turbo on the premise that it will do 330rwkw..ok what car did they do that it

did that on.

Was it a stagea...no

was it auto...f**k no

was it internal gate..

was it on stock manifold...

was it on E85...

was it on a RB..yes

And please don't tell me it was the R26/30 180sx they tuned

Now fill in the blanks and really see how it effects you, as changing one thing drastically effects the other

hence the information you got in the first place that you chose to ignore..

The other thing i hope they are not doing is comparing hypergears figures on dynapack to the dynapack they use and compare to there dyno..that f**king thing reads heaps higher even in SAE mode than chequered tunings that stao

how do i know..ive used it and used your one

unless i have the most epic G3 type A in the land making 320rwkw on 16psi on 98 octane through a auto

on a stock ex manifold ...f*kn lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31
Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

How long does a turbo install and tune take!?!?! Mine took 8 hrs not days haha

I think the tuner has run out of magic fairy powder for his dyno. He's waiting for some fairies to shed their skin at the bottom of his garden so his dyno can conjure up impressive numbers again. He doesn't waste fairy dust on HG turbos, hence the poor numbers.

jet_r31 Mentor

jet_r31

Posted
Posted (edited)

I think the tuner has run out of magic fairy powder for his dyno. He's waiting for some fairies to shed their skin at the bottom of his garden so his dyno can conjure up impressive numbers again. He doesn't waste fairy dust on HG turbos, hence the poor numbers.

Honestly as much as we are giving the poor guy grief,and i think the turbo choice is abit merr...the workshop he has working on his car is excellent and the guys

there are really nice and professional, id let them work on my car anytime and trust me, thats a compliment.

First workshop ive seen for a long time where people aren't jaded and they have enthusiasm for there work, a refreshing change..

they have no magic fairy dust, that dyno reads low all the time

Hope you get a good result and your happy! :)...go buy some meth, add 10 percent to 98 octane , get rid of meow ..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...