Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a bit of a basic question regarding the 4WD system in the R32 GTR. I am currently in the market to purchase a GTR, and have been viewing and test driving a few lately. I have found one which I am very keen to purchase, everything is spot-on with it, however;

Several times during the test drive, the 4WD light on the dash cluster flashed on and off. Being new to Skylines, I assumed that was an indication that the system was sending power/drive to the front wheels, in much the same way a traction control light flashes on and off when it engages. I didn't think to ask the owner of the car, given that I had assumed I knew what it was doing. I have since spoken to a mate who used to have a GTR who said he couldn't recall that ever happening in his,

I've done a bit of searching in here, and on google etc, and have found plenty of info on error codes from ATTESA and the likes, but nothing to confirm or deny the reason the light would just flash on and off randomly during drive.

Is anyone able to shed any light? Does this sound like a fault with the system? Or is it just simply coming on to say that the system is activating?

Thanks in advance,

Matt.

Edited by Hornet2572

The lights are error indicators ("Warning! Warning! Danger, Will Robinson"). Normally if the light comes on it stays on until you stop and re-start the engine. Could be any number of reasons why it might "flash".

As blind_elk indicated there is a number of reasons why. You would have to go through a process of elimination

- sensors in the front hubs (dirty)

- rolling diameter of rim/tyre combo

- attessa ECU

- fluid level

- Gsensor

- wiring

- something else all together

Another to add to the list would be the pressure sensor. If there is some wear or similar issue, or simply a low fluid level you might get a short low pressure condition. Or the sensor could be faulty.

There are so many many ways that these old ATTESA systems can break that you either get one fully checked out before you buy, then proceed confidently knowing it's in good condition, or you buy one assuming that nearly everything in it is ready to fail and plan to spend more $$ on it. Probably soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...