Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , I found this link when looking into DW300 turbine pumps and fuel pump rewires .

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/590352-fuel-pump-wire-high-low-voltage-circuit.html

The aim I believe was to avoid "over running the std FPR" when using high volume fuel pumps .

I found it before starting work this morning and have only gotten a couple of pages in . The thread may be of interest to those with an advanced understanding of volts n amps a so forth .

Enjoy , A .

Meh.

The Solid state relay will lose you 1V so you are dropping the total voltage supplied to the pump by that amount. I want to get more voltage to my pump, not less... 16-18V would be good. :)

Are you over running the stock FPR yet?

Not that I know of but I'm running std GTS25T wiring and an R33 GTR pump , have set the pump voltage change at about 1300 revs .
Would have looked into the reg business but had a train to work . Do the Nismo ones flow more or are they just adjustable ?

A .

Edited by discopotato03

This is a link off the above Evom thread that goes into overrunning the standard FPR .

http://highboostforum.com/forum/showthread.php/28719-TESTED-Stock-Evo-8-9-FPR-Capabilities?

Fuel systems get deeper and deeper . Not sure if there is an easy answer to regs if you don't like glitzy looking aftermarket ones .

I was wondering a while back what would happen if you ran a second OE style FPR in the line before the rail and spliced it into the standard return . In theory both would close up as manifold pressure rose but have double the flow arera of the std single one . Also in theory not all the supply runs through the warm rail .

That aside looked at Britax large spade 80a relays today and need to find a supply of non insulated 9.5mm terminals and insulators for them .

A .

I wouldn't use two regs. If I wanted to achieve the regulator goals you talk about without running the risk of dead-heading the fuel rail with hot/vapourised fuel, I'd simply replace the standard reg at the outlet end of the rail with a small orifice that will pass fuel 100% of the time and place the big aftermarket reg wherever it needs to go before the rail (so that could be in the engine bay or it could be immediately after the pump.

In this way you will always circulate fuel through the rail and back to the tank, but the vast majority of it will never go there.

The problem with two separate regulators doing the same job in parallel is that they will never have the same setpoint. They will always be slightly different. So when the pressure rises to the setpoint of the lower set reg it will open and allow fuel to spill and the other reg will stay shut. If the flow area of the lower reg is insufficient then the pressure will rise above its setpoint and the higher set reg will start to open. This means there will always be some fluff in the fuel pressure setpoint. It will go up and down. If the regs are really close to each other then this won't be a problem. But there is a chance that the difference will be big enough to cause some issues. A permanent very small bleed solves the problem without bringing any real problems of its own.

I searched the SX ones and they claim to have better diaphragm material to suit alternative fuels like ethanol . I didn't see any pics of them in Skyline engine bays , do you have any of yours Scotty ?

Really the way forward looks like doing the top feed conversion to EV14s then the reg and pump and sort the pumps wiring .

Scott would you go with Xspurt shorty 740s / XS reg / DW300 pump in a GTS25T ? I doubt I would see more than 340 or so wasps at the wheels just to give you a number .

Cheers A .

I stumbled on these insulated bulkhead power terminal bolts to get higher current reliably into your fuel tank .

http://www.efihardware.com/products/1593/submersible-pump-bulk-head-terminals

I searched long and hard for this kind of thing a few nights back without success .

A .

I stumbled on these insulated bulkhead power terminal bolts to get higher current reliably into your fuel tank .

http://www.efihardware.com/products/1593/submersible-pump-bulk-head-terminals

I searched long and hard for this kind of thing a few nights back without success .

A .

They look good, but couldn't the fuel leak through the actual thread? Unless the nylic nut seals it off? I am going to machine up something similar, but solid so there are no chance of leaks. Well take some pics when done, hopefully tomorrow.

I think the white nylon spacers with the O rings top and bottom may be threaded though anyone's guess how neat a fit they are on that bolt . I suppose a very light smear of a suitable sealant may stop tank pressure feeding up through the threads .

For an R33 you don't need it to be insulated because the tank lid and ring aren't metallic . A modified brass or stainless bolt could probably be made to work with a dowty seal . Jamb nut to clamp it up and some means of fitting an eye fitting to the head .

I've been looking into Britax relays - R4-1280R is an 80a on/off with 9.5mm terminals and 6.3mm coil spades . They have a resistor in them to protect computer circuitry whatever that means .

They doing a mount base with brass non insulated terminals as well Pn 99025 .

A .

They have a resistor in them to protect computer circuitry whatever that means .They doing a mount base with brass non insulated terminals as well Pn 99025 .A .

Means the low load circuit would have a built in resistor to protect the ECU from any surges.

I don't see the advantage of this relay to your standard 60a horn relay though? 60a is thoroughly overkill, and I use a 30a inline fuse. So 80a is unnecessary. The posts sound like they are a similar size too.

Just a little overkill and hopefully reliability . I think I know a way to parallel the std high low system using the original relay and FPCM to trigger a heavier duty system . From what I can tell the only thing stopping us from rewiring the std system is the current carrying ability of that FPCM which is a glorified protective (for ECU) switch .<br /><br />From what I gather R33 GTRs have the twin FPCM/resistors in a single assembly and they are famous for overheating and failing . The GTS25T has the single FPCM in the same place but the resistor (heat) is near the std jack .<br /><br />A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...