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I can't help from here, but you need to get one out and check the manufacturers part number, see if it's a generic Bosch sensor. Most widebands are. They are most definitely available cheaper aftermarket, it just depends if they are sold with the correct plug on the end. You could always crimp your plug to it though...

Im finding that part number "new" on ebay and the like for under $200 :S

For some reason Nissan are also trying to charge me for 2x new AFM's @ $396ea.

I wish I had found all this out sooner, the car is almost undrivable now and I think i've run out of time to wait for a cheaper options :S

  • 2 weeks later...

So, for $1,200 at Nissan I get 1x o2 sensor, 1x Air filter, 1x car battery, 1x remote battery.

After everything was put in, a second scan was done and now reports rear pair of o2 sensors fluctuating badly.

They said it could be the sensors, or the cat as both sensors in front are reporting fine now.

Also, the car is mostly better. Has a very slight stutter when taking off from a stopped start, nothing like it was.

I have not tried it cold yet, guess I will find out tomorrow.

As far as I know the rear o2 sensors are only feedback to the ecu on cat condition, the front pair will do the actual AF signal input. Being a V36 it has proper wideband sensors, so whilst expensive they should read the same on both banks fairly accurately. If Nissan can't see any issues they should be fine. I am fairly confident the ecu disregards the o2 signal until the car is up to operating temp anyway.

I doubt it's the issue, I have always believed it to be the crank sensor, as it is when taking off. I would say the flywheel pickup is right on the sensor's edge. Drop the crank sensor out and have a look if it's dirty at least. 2 minute job, and you are welcome to call me if you need help doing it. Simple job if you have a jack and stands.

Yeh everything I've read says Crank also, but I was having no engine light or error codes. Plus the initial graph showed front B1 o2 was all over the shop. Probably a combination of the two.

They're saying the front two are cycling correctly, but rear two are no longer according to the scan tool graph. Which is why they think either sensor failure or cat problem.

But honestly they need to do a little bit of actual problem sourcing and physically check these parts instead of plugging the scanner in and then going "Graph says this so that's prob what it is"

Any idiot can do that...

I'll have to find someone to do that for me as I don't have anything more than a single jack. Or i'll tell Nissan to do it when they take another look monday.

Heya Awsam. I read your post with great interest as my 2007 V36 also does the same. I have just purchased it from a car importer. Did replacing the B2 02 help?

On my car, the dealer reset the Japanese fuel values in the ECU via the diagnostic tool and the problem went away. It stopped doing it while driving and when taking off slowly. But alas after 1 week, the problem has reoccurred. I will go back to him and get it rechecked. Will let you know how it goes. Cheers.

Further update. The recurrence according to my mechanic/dealer is most probably due to the fact that I have changed my Air filters (2X), which were filthy from Japan. I got new ones from Nissan. This might have increased the airflow causing more learnings required by ECU. So we reset the Fuel learned values, gearbox learned values and all other learned values in the same page. Then I took the car for a long drive. The only advice he gave was to try and accelerate hard ..wasn't hard to do. Anyway, I think the problem is gone now. Don't feel it anymore, will post if it recurs.

I just bought uprev from overseas, will be getting it late next week. I have the same stutter problem when sitting at lights. i will datalog it and send it orsis and see if they can tell whats causing it and also a few more ponies with a tune. My current mods on my car is stillen high flow cats and megan racing cbe

  • Like 1

Bad news! The problem is back. I'm going back to the dealer today for a full diagnostics. See what he finds.

Also, I noticed that my car stutters at around the 1000rpm mark only and when taking of slowly only. Do you guys experience the same?

Bad news! The problem is back. I'm going back to the dealer today for a full diagnostics. See what he finds.

Also, I noticed that my car stutters at around the 1000rpm mark only and when taking of slowly only. Do you guys experience the same?

My car did this in the beginning, after a few weeks it began doing it at all RPM. Since having one o2 sensor replaced I've found the problem to be much more inconsistent. When taking the little one to school it would always start stuttering at the same stretch of road (roughly 2-3 minutes of driving) now it may do it lightly, or it may do it really bad, some days it now takes up to 15 minutes for the stutter to happen.

Accelerating very hard through it a few times, or taking off from lights very very very slowly makes it go away faster than driving normally.

I'm not sure if changing the second o2 sensor would completely eliminante the problem, i've been meaning to get the car back in but haven't had time.

Hmm..wonder what the problem really is, thanks for that info mate.

My car is at Nissan as we speak. They are diagnosing the car. Just rang and they told me that they are sending the diagnostics data to Nissan Japan for a review of the issue. Will post developments.

Edited by Elcid

Nissan are sending data to Japan, that should fix it. :P

At the end of the day someone needs to pick up a screwdriver and fix the problem. Throwing parts at it, reading consult3 suggested repairs and sending data around isn't diagnosis in my professional opinion and will just leave your wallet empty.

According to Nissans diagnostic graphs, the torque converter send to be slipping when the issue happens. Changed transmission fluid, but no improvement. They suspected te oil may have thinned. Question, had anyone tried changing our checked their soak plugs? Or had this been overlooked because it is hard to access ?

used uprev orsis diagnostic system, no error code found. going to re calibrate air/fuel map see if it helps. otherwise i think elcid is right with the slipping torq converter since i havent seen any manual owners have the stutter problem

I have read on G35 driver that someone pulled their AWD fuse and it solved the problem, but left the car in RWD. Is that relevant to us?

http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-engine-exhaust-drivetrain-fi/416579-low-rpm-trans-slipping.html

Comment #15

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