Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

At the moment selling my R33 GTR BUT im not 100% convinved i want to....

Im at the stage if i got a good offer id take it but love the car and might happily keep it.

The interior is still nice, no holes and rips in the seats etc but if i keep it im thinking of updating it a bit....

The question is IF i do, in your opionion, would it devalue the car?

Like it will no longer have the standard looking seats, instead same seats with black suede instead. and also covering the dash in it to etc

It will no longer be standard etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430961-opinions-on-interior-make-over/
Share on other sites

G'day Adz2332 i know how you feel as ive had this predicament before. In my experience its more cost effective to leave as is. What ever you do to the interior you wont get the money back you invested in the aesthetic upgrade and there is no guarantee it will be to everyone's taste which could result in a lost sale here and there. I might be speaking for myself here but if i was in the market for a GTR or any car for that matter id pick a stock one over an example with customised interior just for the fact its easier to re sell in the future and does tend to retain its value a bit better. i love the idea of the clean look your going for. I think re covering the seats would be ok, in fact id favour them to stock trim but the dash is a bit iffy for some. Save your money, time and anxieties! To answer your question mate i think yes it would devalue the car even though it would look the goods :-)

Yer all very good points....

I dont know if im going to keep or sell...

But if i did keep for a couple more years do you think the interior would hurt sales? as in i know i wouldnt get any more because it has it BUT would it even go the other way and lower the value?

I saw a black R32 GT-R with retrimmed leather seats (with GTR logo) and strengthened bolsters Adam at the SAU.NSW SnS December 2010 at Fairfield Showground.

You can look it up on our Events > Archives.

It won a major award on the day.

It did not devalue the car.

Two things to keep in mind are...

a) Ratio of Cost of Improvements to Value of Car = Overcapitalisation Risk

b) Colour and Quality of fabrics need to appeal to the masses

  • Like 1

I think retrimmed leather would look excellent (as per retrimmed GTR seats) BUT in suede, not so good.

As everyone has said, if you don't plan to sell it, then do whatever you want with the car cos that's all that matters - if you do plan on selling it one day then might not be the best idea, as what YOU like isn't necessarily what other people like.

For example when i was looking for a 34, i found this one retrimmed in white leather - seats, dash, etc etc. it looked...well...kind of hideous to me, but i'm sure the owner loved it.

Yer good point... Plus if its done and done well i wont want to sell the car!

I keep thinking i need to grow up, nearly 30, and buy a more ummm professional car for my line of work etc.

But damn i dont want to sell her!

  • Like 1

I know you can get those very good fitting leather style covers for GTR seats, they'd update it nicely while being 'reversible' so to speak

If done nicely without too much personalisation, I'm sure it wouldn't de-value the car

Think of her this way...

If GerTRude is someone you cannot let go of; buy her new clothes, the finest leather and take her out...

> sit on her and give her a hit...

> she'll give you the greatest hard-ons you've ever experienced!

:P

Fitted seat covers (not just cheap ones) could do the trick. As for the dash, I wouldn't be changing it too much. Colour wise I would go for something to match the interior (such as a satin black finish or a darker scheme of colours. Not bright blue or pink for eg lol. Could even carbon wrap it?

In the end I think these interior additions will keep you satisfied only for a very short time. You need to weigh up the positives and negatives of keeping / selling her. And then go with your instinct :)

Yer good point... Plus if its done and done well i wont want to sell the car!

I keep thinking i need to grow up, nearly 30, and buy a more ummm professional car for my line of work etc.

But damn i dont want to sell her!

Im the same, couple years shy of 30 and i think.... i drive a skyline, Its more perceived as a youngsters car primerily thanks to hoons who cant save it for the track........its never time to grow up! grow in wisdom absolutely but the whole playing the part of a generalised age group....nah..... some days i feel a bit outgrown of my car but at the end of the day its a drivers car. id love to see marketing studies of the typical skyline owner and i can guarantee its shifted since the 00's stereotype. The GTR is a special car. Depends on your line of work really. Could always sell and import a v36 or something... best of both worlds for a while? I think you want a change of car to be honest, when ever i'm umming and aring about selling or keeping a car its for a reason and i think you've answered your own q by saying it dosnt quite suit your vibe at the moment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...