Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Pod Filter Fitment Question

Pedestrian

By Pedestrian,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pedestrian Rookie

Pedestrian

Posted
Posted

Hey all, just bought a 33 gts-t and plan to fit a FMIC this weekend.

To make this fit have had to install a POD filter and just a little concerned with the gap between the AFM and the adaptor ($12 from Supercheap)

It's a genuine K&N filter, there was a rubber gasket that came with the adaptor, on the sides where bolts are closest it seems to seal properly but I am very concerned with the long sides as there is a visible gap between adaptor and the paper seal on the AFM - don't want any unfiltered crap sneaking in.

I'll post a pic as soon as I am using a computer, any help would be much appreciated. For now put stock airbox back on until I can be confident the filter is sealed properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431038-r33-pod-filter-fitment-question/
Share on other sites
jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

just remove it and hammer/sand/grind flat whatever isn't flat.

otherwise have you tried tightening the bolts more? obviously you don't want to crackt he plastic of the AFM but there may be more tension you can put on it...

Pedestrian Rookie

Pedestrian

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All tightening the bolts more does is pinch the rubber so we have a big lip of rubber hanging out.

There's a paper gasket on the AFM that was there from stock, I'm going to try straighten out that plastic adaptor and affix the rubber gasket to it then report back.

Seems crappy Supercheap plastic adapters are not all that great

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

No thats not what i meant.

Ill exagerate for this scenario..... Say you do the right bolt up to 1000Nm and then you do the left bolt up finger tight. The AFM is going to pull crooked (told you I would exagerate)

I didnt mean just tighten the other bolt up more. I was just making sure that they were pulled in evenly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...