Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Blue 17k. Sounds like a steal. I know Spilmer was very particular dont know how its been treated since.

White one is at 25k. Will need to look at it in the flesh to make a decision but I know he spent more than that on it with the motor and other go fast bits.

+ it has most of the gear ready to swap out the 35r and put in a new precision or efr turbo

Seems like a lot.

yeah, go buy the white one! :P

In your opinion (or anyone elses), is a motor at that sort of age making that sort of power a ticking timebomb, or just something you'd want to do one day soonish? or am I misreading the ad and the engine itself is actually cactus already?

I wouldn't be confident in it lasting any significant amount of time, especially with the Power FC in control

I don't get the pfc hate? I mean they're an old design and don't have the features of newer designs, but is there something intrinsically wrong with them aswell?

There is something intrinsically wrong with the design of the RB engine, which is calculating crank position based on cam position, this leads to unstable timing signals. Having a power fc does not allow you to do away with the CAS and fix the issue.

Also it has no knock control, so combined with the timing jitter you engine doesn't stand much of a chance in the long term.

Edited by Bunta

There is something intrinsically wrong with the design of the RB engine, which is calculating crank position based on cam position, this leads to unstable timing signals. Having a power fc does not allow you to do away with the CAS and fix the issue.

Also it has no knock control, so combined with the timing jitter you engine doesn't stand much of a chance in the long term.

The hate is justified in this one.

m800 ftmfw... Just saying :D

The hate is justified in this one.

m800 ftmfw... Just saying :D

Sean agrees with you, but also says the performance gap between a Motec and a Wolf/haltech/link/vipec is now next to nothing so the extra expense is no longer justified.

Currently googling new wheel combos for the 33. Dont know whether to stick with black rims or move onto white.. Also looking at some 16's i can fit bigger tyres on

drags?

15's will fit with some small caliper mods i heard?

When do we get promoted from car club friends to real friends?

I'm gonna say when you've achieved one of the following:

I've slept/passed out on your floor/with you on the floor lol

I've shirts off man hugged you

You've received >5 drunken phone calls from me

Probley other reasons but those spring to mind

not sure if i have done the over 5 phone calls.

Sean agrees with you, but also says the performance gap between a Motec and a Wolf/haltech/link/vipec is now next to nothing so the extra expense is no longer justified.

This is true. 6 years ago was the dogs bollocks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...