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Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


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Mmmm Nitto gear, that's some sweet stuff!

Someone has too much money (Compared to me) :P

Easy come, easy go. Spend it all on silly stuff like cars. seriously, world's worst person to copy financially. Plus, ultimately can only ever drive one at a time. I should have become a liquidator to highlight my talent... sell stuff for 5 cents in the dollar lol

I have followed the Nitto R&D their crankshafts and I-beam rods are unbelievably strong. Good thing about Andrew is that he'll let you buy the bits and pieces component by component and gives you all the clearances and tolerances to set it all up. Buy rods for 3.2 stroker first and then you're committed to the rest :)

Hmm replacing a heater core on a r33... Doesn't sound fun

2 ways to swap it, one involves disconnecting the A/C lines requiring a regass and the other is pulling the whole dash out... I bought a brand new core from the UK 6 months ago.. that's as far as I have got

2 ways to swap it, one involves disconnecting the A/C lines requiring a regass and the other is pulling the whole dash out... I bought a brand new core from the UK 6 months ago.. that's as far as I have got

The other involves yelling "FUGGIT" and just linking the heater hoses in the engine bay... LOL

Here's the secret to a cheap heater core install - find a wrecker that wrecks Skylines only. Ask wrecker to do a cashishy :ph34r: job to install new heater core. They take them out so often that they can do it in no time at all without damage and remembering where everything goes :)

you used bing...that's a paddlin

aspirations and goals are a good thing mate!

Dream are unfortunately still free.

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  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
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    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
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