Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

I've used this guide for removing the hicas on both my 32's and it works great and is the easiest way to stop the warning light showing on the dash.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410492-r32-hicas-removal/

HICAS warning light

Many people have said that locking HICAS causes your steering to get heavy, but they simply haven't done it properly. There has been NO change in steering feel with any of the cars that I have done. The only problem is the fact that the HICAS warning light comes on (because it's not there...). This can be solved by cutting the warning sender wire on the HICAS computer or removing the warning light's bulb from the dash. I prefer to cut the wire as it's quicker, easier and if you for some reason lose power steering fluid, it will tell you when your resevoir is low.

The HICAS computer is underneath the parcel shelf, it is to the right of centre (when looking in from the boot). Unplug the smaller of the two plugs in the back of it and then cut the green with white trace line wire. You can also just leave the smaller of the two harnesses out and it does the same thing, no ill effects and no HICAS light.

I've used this guide for removing the hicas on both my 32's and it works great and is the easiest way to stop the warning light showing on the dash.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410492-r32-hicas-removal/

HICAS warning light

Many people have said that locking HICAS causes your steering to get heavy, but they simply haven't done it properly. There has been NO change in steering feel with any of the cars that I have done. The only problem is the fact that the HICAS warning light comes on (because it's not there...). This can be solved by cutting the warning sender wire on the HICAS computer or removing the warning light's bulb from the dash. I prefer to cut the wire as it's quicker, easier and if you for some reason lose power steering fluid, it will tell you when your resevoir is low.

The HICAS computer is underneath the parcel shelf, it is to the right of centre (when looking in from the boot). Unplug the smaller of the two plugs in the back of it and then cut the green with white trace line wire. You can also just leave the smaller of the two harnesses out and it does the same thing, no ill effects and no HICAS light.

easy peasie

How is everyone?

I did some landscaping yesterday, my muscles hurt... Thankfully not as badly as I thought they would, I can still function haha! But even my hands are sore! So what do I do? Arrange for 2m3 of crusher dust and pebbles to be delivered today so I can do that along with the other garden edges I need to do :P Never learn!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...