Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Mr Scott come drink dirty dirty martins with me...

Ie, gin and ice lol

Sorry nick me no drinks much these days...

and then one of these comes along...

Hill%20Road%20corner.jpg

Lol'd hard at this... I'm still so undecided on my gear box option

Sideways 60 metres prior to bend will fix that Pete :)

Nick I used a turbo 400 in my pro street 500ci 14/71 Bronco - it was rock solid never broke Neal Trans built.

^ this guy he speaketh my language lol

I'm Having nothing but issues with my 4L60e spent a fortune on it and it's still being gay

Hmm I guess, mines pretty doughy off cam ie anything under 4k... Although I spin the sum bitch up 7k now so yeah. But coming onto the highway at from 60 if I tramp first and ratchet second it basically powerskids around the shop easily to 100.

But what im getting at is people around the place claim there bulk hp cars are "streetable" yet I can't see how it's possible... Some insight from a guy/girl with a big powah street car is appreciated

My daily had 390 kw , it was perfectly streetable unless you wanted to zip around someone on a roundabout, where it would rather go sideways if shown boost than accelerate out infront of them.

Spending some money on decent rubber is a must.

Morning all, first day back at work :(

@Nick: Tyre quality is a lot more important than tyre width. 235 shitty Chinese tyres will still suck, so will 255, 275, etc.

But a good quality tyre the same width will provide a lot more grip

this, a whole lot of this. P zeros!

My daily had 390 kw , it was perfectly streetable unless you wanted to zip around someone on a roundabout, where it would rather go sideways if shown boost than accelerate out infront of them.

Spending some money on decent rubber is a must.

and again

I need to experience this "boost" I don understand it

indeed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...