Jump to content
SAU Community

New cooler install

Bass Junky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Hey ppls.

Just had the new cooler fitted and thought I'd port some pics for anybody interested in how it looks.

Its an R34 GTT

It an HKS Type S Intercooler kit.

I powder coated the pipes black (they were originally silver) for stealth, but couldn't decided on an appropriate coating for the cooler so left it uncoated.

They only had to cut the lower cross member.

All pipes went back to the original holes where the standard cooler goes.

Here's the pics.

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43132-new-cooler-install/
Share on other sites
bangahh Community Regular

bangahh

Posted
Posted

looks great...... and thanks for the pics, thats exactly what I want to do when my cooler arrives.

Since you already been there, done that. Can I ask a few questions.

How much did it cost you just for the piping if you did it yourself or did you get someone else to install it?

Does the return pipe need to be bolted to the chasis?

cheers

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It an HKS intercooler kit.

Comes with everything to bolt the kit up to the car.

Including a small bracket to hold the return pipe to the chassis and stop it from flopping about.

The long pipe which goes from the turbo side of the engine to the far side is actually the "hot" pipe, and the short pipe going to the intake the is the "cold" pipe.

Interesting.

Today, the mesh grills are being cut and put into the oringinal locations where possible and the cooler will be sprayed matt black for stealth (well, as much as possible anyway)

Will let you all know how it turns out.

BASS OUT

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

looks good!

just a questoin tho why was the return pipe plumbed back via the stock inlet pipe locaton vs going into the right hand side and using a 270 degree bend into the plenum? wouldn't it be better this way vs coming all the way back the same path?

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Great because I have the exact same front bar. I was intending to go stealth too.

Thanks for that.

Why don't you cut away the extra number plate mounting area. That's my intention so as to not block the airflow. May have to put all new mesh in though.

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

RaulR33.

The R34 has a different inlet to the throttle body as it has a solenoid operated throttle before the normal one for traction control, therefore you can't put a 120 in there.

Secondly, I didn't want to cut the chassis for the pipe.

Thirdly, that's just how the kit came. Who am I to argue??

Abo Bob.

The bottom of the Nismo bar would be completely unsupported if I cut out the number plate section.

On a road car, the intercooler acts more like a heat sink anyway, by the time you heat soak the cooler enough to require bulk airflow, you would probably break something else.

On a race or track car however, airflow is important to remove heat from the core.

I also wanted full stealth for staying a little bit discreet.

Another note.

Boost definently comes on a little later, but no later than stock thanks to Roil.

I also fitted a lightened flywheel:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...2997#post882997

yesterday, which takes up the slack response.

BASS OUT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...