Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Can anyone suggest a shop I can go to around Sydney to get a battery which will fit right in? Car isn't starting on some mornings and just now after a drive it didn't want to start. Turns over then clicks, low on juice. Voltage when running is about 14 - 14.2v which would indicate the alternator is fine.

Ive called a few shops they all either cant be stuffed or don't know. Someone suggested "any battery will fit". Can't see how since there is very limited room. If I go dry cell can the battery be mounted flat? There isn't very much room at the moment between the speaker and negative battery terminal and the battery in there is tiny. Its a century branded battery and its much smaller than the battery tray in the car.

Sum it up, new battery from where, how much and wet or dry?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431334-drop-in-battery-for-r33/
Share on other sites

Get the model code off the battery? 45Z or something I dont know, If its a century battery it will be on there.

Depending on what you want will depend on where you go

If you just want another centry, run of the mill battery, go to supercheap auto

I don't feel this battery is suitable. It is far too small and since Ive had the car its always been abit laggy on cold morning starts. Also have a sound system in there, not too big but again a battery that small will be pushing it. Thinking of getting an Optima battery but unsure if they will fit.

I don't feel this battery is suitable. It is far too small and since Ive had the car its always been abit laggy on cold morning starts. Also have a sound system in there, not too big but again a battery that small will be pushing it. Thinking of getting an Optima battery but unsure if they will fit.

Slip down to the Optima guys & let them do the thinking for you man. Done deal.

Cheers GW

I've just replaced my battery. After doing the ring around I ended up at Super Charge at Blacktown who found me a battery that was the same size - with the pencil sized terminals - that fit perfectly in the standard tray. The battery was a MF40B20L and although RRP was around $130 they let me have it for $90 - bargain. It's a fully sealed, maintenance free battery so no loose vapours in the boot and is rated at 360CCA which also aligns with the standard specs.

If your running a few amplifiers and like leaving the stereo on without the engine running, or you have one of those alarms that just loves to slowly drain your battery over a few days, I would recommend replacing your battery terminals for some larger sizes. You would then be able to get a fractionally larger battery rated to around 450 - 500CCA and that would keep you cranking on the coldest of mornings.

Z

I'll give them a call and see what they suggest. Just went down to the local and the chap suggested the same battery I got in there, the 40vlsx or something or rather. I don't leave my stereo running when the car is off, but I do think my alarm is one of those drain your battery in two days type.

Zane can your sealed battery be fit in any position?

Just an update.

Called up a few places, ended up going with a SuperCharge MF75D23L. Was only $140 so not bad at all. Has twice the cranking power compared to my old battery, much larger, greater capacity and its sealed. It was a straight fit, old terminals were fine but I had to make a longer securing bracket on the top of the battery. 5 minute job.

If you're after a battery for your R33 and need something a little bigger, consider the MF75D23L. 3 years replacement warranty too.

Edited by SargeRX8
  • 2 weeks later...

  • Alarm (pretty common, pulled a faulty one out of my mate's car not long ago)

Ghey window lift kits

ABS relay constantly on

Relay for ECU on, constant power to it

Faulty Amp, constantly staying on regardless of trigger wire

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...