Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

After recommendations of people to do window tinting to my car and also rust repairs and proofing?

Seen 2 companies so far, Tinting Solutions and Tint A Car, both at Albion

$300 cash for Tint a Car and yet to get price for other mob.

Other mob are also doing rust proofing(EndRust agent) to a bit of surface rust on under body, he said he will spray it with a rust kill product which oxidizes the rust, then brush loose and clean up and coat several times with a wax/lacquer style paint to seal it. For a GTR r33.

Advice on procedure for rust proofing that will be quoted? and further recommendations if in the know of any others would be appreciated?

Cheers

Edited by smidy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431338-tinting-and-rust-poof/
Share on other sites

obviously, I cant tell you where to go.

but one thing to consider....

the base colour of the tint.

I have seen, blue, green, brown, grey and red.

mate got tint on a cx7, has a very slight green tinge to it.

the wifes mazda 3 has a grey base.

this is my preference, so id pay extra.

just something you may not have thought about.

  • 2 weeks later...

Thought about trying it yourself?

eBay has tint rolls for under $100 and the application kits for 20ish

Killing surface rust - depending how deep, use kill rust then spray over with underbody spray i would have thought

Edited by BstewyR33
  • 4 weeks later...

Ended up getting tintmart, good bloke was a bit more than other places but a higher quality more heat Reducing tint too. Got a product same as POR 15 but slightly cheaper for the rust issues. Cheers for input from those who did!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...