Jump to content
SAU Community

Driving Car Interstate - Front Bumper Protection, Tape?

iwanta34gtr

By iwanta34gtr,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

iwanta34gtr Grand Master

iwanta34gtr

Posted
Posted

Hi Everyone,

Travelling interstate shortly and will be driving a car back to Sydney, seeking guidance what to use to protect the paint on the front bumper - etc.

I remembered seeing a classic photo of a midnight purple R34 GTR with the front end wrapped in blue tape.

For anyone with this experience, what tape do you use? Is it just a standard 3M painters tape?


Was looking at cloth tape but not too keen in applying this because although its quite thick - it is also quite sticky. Obviously dont want to damage the paint upon removal.

Any advice or info would be appreciated.

Cheers.

post-86021-0-32450100-1378272073_thumb.jpg post-86021-0-89432500-1378272080_thumb.jpg post-86021-0-24261000-1378272088_thumb.jpg

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
Posted (edited)

You can buy this stuff from super cheap or autobarn it's a black spray that you can peel off after use..

It's to protect your car from stone chips.. Not sure how good it is though..

Not sure on correct name either, saw it in a performance imports magazine not too long ago.

Edited by Zrobe
BakemonoRicer Grand Master

BakemonoRicer

Posted
Posted

Wouldn't recommend painters tape.

Ive used it for detailing to mask off seals, trims and gaps and you'll only get about ~ 4 hours out of it before the "glue" starts leaving residue on the paint. And that's when the car is sitting.

I'd go with a hood bra or vinyl wrap.... but prepare the surface properly before you put it on -- > e.g. get rid of any contaminants sitting on the paint.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Guess what Chris?

If permission is granted...

A very irregular SAUer owns a car bra that was tailor-made for his R34 GTR V-Spec.

Interested? He has cancer, so I don't know how accessible he is either.

Mid Blue Mtns

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Peelable spray is called plastidip, from autobahn.

I also have a plastic wrap called street wrap. Works well and easy to remove. Can be tricky to apply, sorta like glad wrap lol.

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

Plastidip would be your best bet. Easy to put on, easy to get off and provides pretty much the same protection as a wrap.

It's $30 a can from Autobarn. To do say half way down your bonnet forward you'll need at least two cans, possibly three. You need to do a few coats.

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

3m and most vinyl wrap manufacturers do a clear stone protection wrap for this very purpose. I came across it in my search for ricer carbon fibre wrap (yeh I know :closedeyes: ) . It's meant to be removable, but being clear, you could probably leave it in place.

Darkon631 Contributor

Darkon631

Posted
Posted

I work at SCA. I'm not sure of what the name of the stuff is but the first comment would be best option. It's an Armor All product that you spray on the front end of your bumper and it protects from scratches and chips. Costs about $24.95 a can (I think). Simply spray on and peel off when you're done. I believe there is clear, white or black

iwanta34gtr Grand Master

iwanta34gtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys,

Ended up driving back unprotected, just kept reasonable distance from any cars / trucks that could throw gravel - etc up.

My partner intends on painting the front bar anyway she wants it to be perfect, however upon inspection at home - there were no stone chips or visible wear and tear as a result of the drive back.

Cheers.

MagicMikeZ32 Veteran

MagicMikeZ32

Posted
Posted

For future search sake, I have used this:

http://www.autoskin.com.au/

Works pretty good for dust/general road typr spray. Obviously if someone throws a decent sized rock up it always has potential to go through.

  • 2 months later...
Alexro Apprentice

Alexro

Posted
Posted

That's pretty lucky, the two best choices would be to plastidip your bumper and behind wheels. Or go to bunnings and get edge lock masking tape (the one that leaves no residue).

Plastidip is easier to apply and remove. Both are going to cost you the same

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...